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COEXRIGIIT DEPOSIT. 



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YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT 
HOW TO CARE FOR THEM 



YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT 

HOW TO CARE FOR THEM 

A TREATISE ON THE CARE OP THE 
DOG AND CAT IN THE HOME 



BY 



ROY H. SPAULDING, D.V. M. 

FORMERLY RESIDENT VETERINARIAN AT THE 
NEW YORK women's LEAGUE FOR ANIMALS 




D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 
NEW YORK :: 1921 :: LONDON 



Cj^'N^^ 



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COPYRIGHT, 1 92 1, BY 

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 



M 22 1921 



PRINTED IN THK tTNITKD STATES OF AMERICA 



©CU617423 



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TO 

ALL LOVERS OF ANIMALS 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Care of the Dog i 

Housing I 

Exercise 5 

Vital Functions 13 

Coat 17 

Teeth 26 

Ears 29 

Eyes 30 

Nails 31 

II. Medical Care 33 

Administration of Medicines 33 

The Use and Abuse of Medicines 43 

Home Treatment 45 

Hospital 47 

Hygienic Treatment for the Sick 47 

III. Common Diseases of the Dog 49 

Digestive Disturbances 49 

Diseases of the Respiratory Organs 61 

Infectious Diseases 64 

Diseases of the Urinary Tract 67 

General Diseases 68 

Diseases of the Skin 70 

Injuries 76 

IV. Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals ... 80 

Breeding 80 

Reproductive Functions 81 

Care 89 

vii 



Contents 



CHAPTBR PACK 

V. Foods and Feeding 92 

Food Requirements 92 

Foods 94 

Quantity 100 

Feeding 102 

Water 113 

VI. Training the Dog 115 

Training Age .116 

VII. Selection of the Dog 123 

Breed 123 

Individual , . . . 138 

VIII. The Cat 145 

Its Care ... - 145 

Medical Care 149 

Common Diseases of the Cat 150 

Feeding 160 



viu 



YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT 

HOW TO CARE FOR THEM 



YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT 

HOW TO CARE FOR THEM 

CHAPTER I 

CARE OF THE DOG 

Housing 

Freedom of the House. — Even in the most spa- 
cious apartments the dog enjoys but Hmited diver- 
sion, therefore he should be given access to all of 
the rooms in order that he may have the oppor- 
tunity to get all the exercise possible and have as 
vi^ide a variety of surroundings as available. There 
are, however, times when it is necessary to keep 
him from certain parts of the house. When visi- 
tors come, the dog should be forbidden the room 
unless they are fond of dogs, because so many 
people possess a great fear or dislike of animals. 
In case of sickness the dog must not be allowed in 
the patient's room. A dog should never be left 
alone in any room where a window is open unless 
it is provided with a screen or other suitable pro- 
tection to prevent him from going out on the sill 
and perhaps falling to the ground. During meals 
he should be kept from the dining room, and at no 
time is it wise to leave him alone in a room where 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

food, especially meat, lies uncovered on the table, 
since the animal may be tempted to steal. A puppy 
ought not be confined in a room alone for any great 
length of time where it is possible for him in his 
play, or his desire to get out, to damage the fur- 
nishings. When a dog is kept in the house it is 
necessary to air the rooms more thoroughly than 
otherwise. During the airing process in winter he 
should be kept out of the room. 

Bed. — The dog should be allotted special sleeping 
quarters rather than be permitted to sleep about on 
the chairs, beds and other furniture. It is especially 
important that he never be allowed to sleep with the 
children. His bed may consist of a small piece of 
sheeting folded in several thicknesses, of a mat made 
from table padding, or of any material which can 
be easily washed. Although he is better without it, 
a pillow may be placed under the pad if so desired, 
or a box may be partially filled with cedar shavings 
over which the mat may be spread. Elaborate 
sleeping baskets are sold at the dog counters which, 
when decorated with ribbons and covered pillows, 
make very attractive quarters for the toy dogs. The 
bed can be placed in any convenient corner so long 
as it is not in a draft and the dog can have access 
from it to his pan or paper, should he use either. 
If the dog is kept in the basement his bed must be 
raised from the floor in order to protect him from 
dampness and cold. It will also be necessary to 
provide much thicker bedding. 



Care of the Dog 



Dog House. — For the dog kept out of doors a 
kennel in which he can sleep and seek shelter from 
the storms and cold is very desirable. He will be 
much healthier if accustomed to this exposure. If 
he is intended to watch the premises he will be of 
greater value when he is outside, where he can 
more quickly detect the presence of strangers. The 
kennel should be as small as possible to accommodate 
him comfortably, so that when the weather is cold 
or damp the heat generated from his body will be 
sufficient to warm the quarters. It should be built 
of wood, as stone or cement are too cold, and should 
be so constructed that it may easily be cleaned. 
When it is not necessary that the kennel be more 
than four feet high, the roof can be made to lift 
off, in order to facilitate cleaning. If it is desirable 
to have it higher, a door can be constructed in one 
end. In either case a small door should be made 
for the dog's use, only large enough to permit his 
passage. This may be protected by a curtain of 
heavy cloth or by a door suspended on hinges or 
straps, in such a manner as to allow it to swing in 
either direction, so that it will remain closed at all 
times when the weather is cold, but can be fastened 
open when warm. The floor should be at least three 
inches from the ground and slant slightly to the 
front so that water will drain off. 

The sleeping box should be raised from the floor 
eight or ten inches. If made full width of the ken- 
nel its construction will be much simpler. The 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

bottom can be placed on two cleats nailed to either 
wall. The front is made to slide between two cleats 
fastened perpendicular to and in front of the front 
edge of the bottom of the box. In the front a hole 
should be made of sufficient size to permit the pass- 
age of the dog. For winter use a cover can be placed 
over the box, completely inclosing it except for the 
small opening in the front. Cedar shavings make 
the best bedding. They may be placed in the box 
in abundant quantities, and each time after a floor 
cleaning handfuls of shavings can be scattered 
about. The shavings will help absorb the moisture 
and their odor is of benefit in keeping away fleas. 

Cleaning. — The mat on which the dog sleeps 
should be washed at least twice a week and if neces- 
sary, every day. If he uses a pillow this should be 
aired and shaken up every day. His sleeping box 
or basket should be sponged off with a disinfectant 
solution occasionally. The cedar shavings can be 
changed once a week. The dog house should have 
a thorough scrubbing, followed by a good disin- 
fecting, every week or two. When fleas are present 
the cleaning must be more vigorous. 

Feeding. — The dog should have a regular place 
for his meals as well as a regular feeding time. 
The kitchen is the best place for this. He positively 
should not be fed in the dining room during the 
family meals. The pan or plate on which his meals 
are served should be removed, with any food which 
is left, within a half hour after feeding. Water 



Care of the Dog 



may be put down for him at this time. The dishes 
should be washed after each meal. 

Toilet. — For small house dogs, who attend to their 
functions indoors, a regular place must be provided 
for this purpose. A pan or paper, conveniently lo- 
cated in either the kitchen or the bathroom, is the 
most satisfactory arrangement. This must, at all 
times, be accessible and, for this reason, the kitchen 
makes the better place. An ordinary newspaper 
will suffice and, as soon as it has been used, can be 
thrown out. A pan filled with either sand or saw- 
dust is often preferred but is harder to clean 
than the newspaper, and entails more expense. 
Where this method is used, the sand or sawdust 
must be thrown out daily, the pan washed and re- 
filled. When the dog uses the roof, a box of sand 
or ashes may be placed there for him. This can be 
changed once or twice a week and will save consid- 
erable labor in cleaning the roof. For the dog who 
has a yard to run in, a small area of ground may 
be spaded up for him. This can be respaded from 
time to time. 

Exercise 

The maintenance of health depends upon the 
proper digestion and assimilation of the food ma- 
terial and the free and thorough elimination of the 
waste products. The assimilated nutritive material 
is either expended as energy or stored up in the 
system as fat. If this process takes place with too 

5 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

great rapidity or if an excessive quantity is accumu- 
lated, the system becomes sluggish. As a result, the 
elimination of waste products is retarded and diges- 
tion becomes inactive. When in this condition the 
animal becomes readily susceptible to disease. If on 
the other hand the nutritive material is expended in 
energy such a condition will not develop. Thus to 
avoid it in inactive animals, exercise must be sup- 
plied. To provide opportunity for exercise is the 
hardest part of the care of the apartment-house dog. 
In the city the street is about the only available place 
where the dog can exercise. 

Street — Harness. — Where the dog is to be taken 
into the street for his exercise he should be fur- 
nished with a harness or collar, a leader and a 
muzzle. A harness which fits over the shoulders 
and chest is much more comfortable than a collar, 
though not as safe. It is suitable only for the 
small dogs because the large, strong dogs, such as 
the collie, pull so hard that the harness, which fits 
over the shoulders like the collar on a horse, does 
not give sufficient purchase to control the animal 
should he desire to get away. For these larger 
dogs a collar fastened about the neck is much 
safer. As the dog pulls, the pressure of the collar 
on his throat tends to shut off his wind and forces 
him to slow up. The disadvantage of this is that 
the constant irritation caused by such pressure on a 
tender throat will induce a cough which oftentimes 
becomes chronic, if the irritation is continued. The 

6 



Care of the Dog 



collar and the harness both are not needed at the 
same time. They are not only a source of discom- 
fort to the dog, but also very unbecoming, especially 
when they are out of proportion to the size of the 
animal and gayly bedecked with brass. 

Muzzle. — In New York and almost all large 
cities there are laws requiring the use of muzzles 
while the dog is on the street. Although this law 
works a great hardship on the dog it is necessary 
and wise for the protection of the public. The real 
object of the law is to control the spread of rabies 
which is disseminated by the bite of a rabid dog. 
There are many dogs which, because they are natu- 
rally vicious and in the habit of biting, should be 
muzzled. Some dogs, although generally peaceful 
and harmless, might be provoked to bite if annoyed 
or frightened by strangers. It is to the owner's ad- 
vantage to comply with the law because if his dog 
should happen to snap at or bite anyone and the 
matter was reported to the police, as it always is if 
a physician treats the wound, the animal would be 
kept in quarantine as a case of suspected rabies, 
thereby causing a great deal of trouble and annoy- 
ance. 

Blanket. — In cold weather it is often advisable 
to supply the toys and very short-haired dogs with 
a blanket or sweater. The blanket is, of course, 
only for street use and should not be worn in the 
house. Once the dog has become accustomed to it 
in the fall, it must be worn continually during the 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

winter, and in the spring as much care and judg- 
ment is necessary in leaving it off as we use in dis- 
carding our overcoats. Where the blanket is worn 
intermittently the dog is in more danger of con- 
tracting a cold than if he did not have a blanket at 
all. Leather-covered storm blankets are of excep- 
tional value for use on very cold and stormy days. 
Manners. — When the dog is taken out on the 
street, he should be taught to walk either directly 
behind or ahead of his companion, rather than 
allowed to romp at will. It is very annoying to 
pedestrians to have to get out of the way of a 
headstrong dog, and as some people do not like dogs 
or are afraid of them, it is unfair to impose their 
presence on them. At some time during the exer- 
cise period the dog can be taken to a quiet street 
and there allowed to romp and play for a while. 
When it is possible to take him to the park the dog 
will get much more enjoyment out of his exercise. 
While on the street the dog should not be allowed 
to come in contact with other dogs, principally be- 
cause of the danger of contracting disease; and, 
secondly, because of the great desire of canines to 
fight. Never let children pet the dog unless he is 
securely muzzled, for they are often unmeaningly 
rough and might provoke the dog to bite. Great 
care should be taken that the dog does not pick up 
foreign substances, such as stones, sticks, bones and 
bits of food. The playful puppy is very prone to 
this habit and should be closely watched. So many 

8 



Care of the Dog 



dogs are injured by automobiles that every possible 
precaution should be taken to prevent the dog from 
being subjected to such accidents. 

After the dog has been allowed to run until he 
has become heated, he must not be permitted to 
stand in a cold v^ind. On cold rainy days it is 
better not to take the dog farther than is necessary 
for him to clean himself and, on returning home his 
feet should be washed and his whole body rubbed 
briskly with towels until thoroughly dry. A dog 
must not be taken out directly after his bath, except 
in midsummer. 

Roof. — Oftentimes the apartment is so situated 
that the roof is easily accessible. In such cases this 
makes a desirable place for exercising the dog. 
Many dogs may be trained to go to the roof by 
themselves and, by so doing, they enjoy far greater 
freedom. Some dogs will play by themselves, de- 
riving much benefit therefrom, but as a rule, those 
that are closely confined soon lose the desire to 
exercise unless encouraged. In the excitement of 
playing, the dog might jump or fall off the roof 
unless the inclosure is of sufficient height to prevent. 
During the summertime, it gets very hot on the city 
roof so that it is impossible for the dog to stay 
there for any length of time. 

Yard. — A dog that is allowed the freedom of a 
yard will require but little attention after he has 
become accustomed to conditions. If the proper 
selection of breed has been made the dog will ac- 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

quire what exercise he needs within the Hmits of 
the yard. That is, if any of the smaller dogs or 
those of Airedale size are chosen, the ordinary yard 
will be large enough. But, if a collie, Russian wolf- 
hound, or any of the larger and more active breeds 
are selected, the yard will be much too small for 
their needs. 

A strong robust animal will soon be acclimated 
to the exposure and can be left out at all times 
except during a very hard storm. If the dog lives 
in his kennel he will be much hardier than the one 
who spends a part or most of his time in the house. 
When the dog is first put in the yard great care 
must be taken, for unless he is used to like exposure 
he may easily contract a cold. Until he has become 
hardened he should not be left out for long at a 
time, tmless the weather is warm. In case he is 
caught out in a cold storm he must be taken into 
the house and given a hot bath, thoroughly dried 
and warmed. When the yard is not inclosed by a 
fence considerable freedom may be acquired if the 
dog is properly fastened with a chain. A very 
efficient way is to stretch a wire between two build- 
ings or posts, having a ring on it so that it can 
slide back and forth. The dog's chain can be 
fastened to this ring. When the wire is attached 
to a post, a stick or nail should be fastened to the 
wire a sufficient distance from the post to prevent 
the dog from winding his chain about it. The 
wire should always be fastened so that the dog can 

lO 



Care of the Dog 



move to his kennel or other shelter and into the 
shade. 

Amount of Exercise. — The amount of exercise 
required by the dog depends directly upon his size 
and temperament and indirectly on the amount and 
character of the food which he consumes. Since 
the amount of exercise which can be given the ani- 
mal is determined by existing conditions, the dog 
should be selected whose exercise needs will con- 
form to these conditions and his food should be 
regulated accordingly. Small dogs, such as the 
Pekingese and Pomeranian, need but little out-of- 
door exercise, a walk of five blocks once or twice 
daily being sufficient. The small terriers of the 
type of the Boston will require from twenty to 
forty blocks daily. The Airedale, Collie, and St. 
Bernard are so large and active that their freedom 
should not be curbed by a leader. The English Bull, 
while a large animal, is of such build as to be re- 
stricted in movement. If he were to attempt a long 
hard run he would soon find himself short of wind 
and exhausted. 

However, no set of rules can be laid down for 
exercising any dog or breed of dogs. It must be 
remembered that few house dogs receive enough 
exercise and every owner should aim to get his 
dog out at every possible opportunity. The opinion 
of the owner as to the amount of exercise his dog 
receives varies according to his own desire to walk. 
Some people think that a five block walk is a great 

II 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

deal, while others feel that twenty or thirty blocks 
is very little. Occasionally a person will go to the 
park and sit on a bench with the dog in his lap 
and afterward tell of the wonderful exercise the 
dog receives. 

The dog that gets enough exercise and not too 
much to eat will retain his activity and graceful 
lines even to old age, while the underexercised and 
overfed dog grows fat and lazy. Therefore, the 
best guide is the condition of the dog. Should he 
begin to take on flesh, cut down his food and get 
him out more, stimulate a desire to play and keep 
him at it till he tires. A rubber ball, a stick, or a 
strap will help to amuse him and make him take 
the much needed exercise. In selecting a ball for 
this purpose, make sure that it is of sufficient size 
to prevent the dog's swallowing it in his excitement. 

Regularity. — Regular exercise is just as impor- 
tant as the amount. A fwo: mile walk once a week 
is not as beneficial as five blocks a day. Occasional 
long walks instead of invigorating the animal ex- 
haust him and it is several days before he over- 
comes the effects. A regular daily walk will tend 
to keep him in uniform condition. When used to 
this regular exercise he can easily take the longer 
jaunt without bad results. 

Frequency. — The frequency with which it is 
necessary to take the dog out during the day will 
depend on whether he uses a pan or paper in the 
house for cleaning himself. In case he does, he 

12 



Care of the Dog 



need be taken out only at the will of his owner, 
providing he gets sufficient exercise in one trip. 
The dog that goes into the street to attend to him- 
self must be given frequent chances to do so. Fail- 
ure in this will result either in an unclean dog or an 
unhealthy one. Retention of the urine tends to 
cause a paralytic condition of the bladder which will 
evidence itself by dribbling of the urine or in- 
voluntary passages. The dog should be accustomed 
to a routine which should not be varied from day 
to day by any great space of time. He should be 
taken out the first thing in the morning and the last 
thing at night in order to shorten the night interval 
as much as possible. Besides this he ought to have 
at least two more chances to go out. The morning 
trip should come before breakfast, as soon as pos- 
sible after he starts moving about, for that will 
induce the desire to urinate after his night's sleep. 
His exercise periods are best given a considerable 
time after he has eaten in order that digestion may 
be partially, if not entirely, completed. There 
should be no reason for the well dog to be unclean 
with four chances to care for himself in twenty- 
four hours. 

Vital Functions 

Relation to Health. — There is no more important 
duty connected with the care of the dog than giving 
proper attention to his necessary habits, and yet it 
is the most often neglected. The maintenance of 

13 



Your Dog- and Your Cat 

health depends as much on the ehmination of the 
waste products as on the intake of food. Almost 
always the first symptom following a stoppage of 
the bowels or a retention of urine is a loss of ap- 
petite, while on the other hand the movements con- 
tinue for days after the animal stops taking food. 
Daily observations of the passages are very essen- 
tial, and a mental note of their occurrence may be 
carried from day to day. In case of no movement 
of either the bowels or urine for forty-eight hours, 
steps should be taken to locate the cause and 
remedy the condition. If an abnormal stool occurs 
for more than two passages it will require treat- 
ment. In case of a sick animal it is more advisable 
to keep a written record of the frequency and char- 
acter of the evacuations as well as the condition of 
the appetite. Such a record will be of invaluable 
aid to the doctor should it be necessary to seek his 
help. 

Feces — Composition. — The feces are composed 
of the indigestible parts of the food together with 
the by-products of digestion. The process of di- 
gestion consists in breaking up and assimilating the 
food material and absorbing from the mass that 
which is of value to the body. As a result of this 
procedure many poisonous gases and acids are 
formed. If these are not eliminated they act as 
poisons to the body. 

The normal stool is cylindrical in shape, varying 
in size with the dog. It is a congealed mass, of 

14 



Care of the Dog 



firm moist consistency, with little or no odor. Ab- 
normal stools are significant of disease and are 
designated according to their characteristics. A 
hard, dry passage is called a constipated stool; a 
thin watery movement is called a watery stool, or 
diarrhea. When the passage is like a thick, sticky 
gruel it is termed a pasty stool. A passage consist- 
ing of a jelly-like mass which may be accompanied 
with blood, is mucus from the intestinal coat, and 
when the blood is present it is spoken of as bloody 
mucus. 

Color. — The color of the movement is altered by 
the character of the food consumed. When meat 
predominates, the color is black, cereals produce a 
brownish stool, and vegetables a slatish-gray move- 
ment. Bones cause a hard, dry, crumbly stool of 
grayish-yellow color. Watery stools are usually 
black but may be reddish-brown, due to the pres- 
ence of blood, or light yellow when the liver is in- 
volved. A formed movement may be specked with 
blood. 

Character. — The character of the movement 
should be noted at each evacuation in order to keep 
a check on the dog's condition. Any deviation from 
normal is a sign of intestinal trouble and should re- 
ceive prompt attention. This is especially impor- 
tant in puppies and weak dogs since intestinal dis- 
orders progress with astonishing rapidity and 
quickly lower the vitality of the animal. 

Frequency of Movement. — The frequency of the 

15 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

movement is dependent on the quantity and kind 
of food the animal is fed. When the diet consists 
solely of raw, chopped beef, the amount of fecal 
matter is very slight, because the greater part of 
the meat is digested and absorbed. Vegetables con- 
tain a large percentage of fiber which is of no 
food value and is eliminated, making a very bulky 
and frequent stool. Dogs should have at least one 
good movement a day but they may have two or 
three or even more, depending on the character 
of the food. In cases of diarrhea there may be as 
many as forty passages a day. Some animals 
habitually have but one evacuation in from two to 
five days but such a condition is absolutely wrong 
and requires attention. 

Defecation. — Passage of a normal stool should 
take place with greatest ease. Straining with a 
normal passage is evidence of rectal trouble. When 
the dog is constipated he will strain for some time 
before dislodging the stool. In case of diarrhea, 
straining occurs after the movement, due to irrita- 
tion of the bowel. 

Urine — Composition. — The urine originates as 
such in the kidneys, being taken from the blood by 
a process of filtration. It consists of the waste 
products of tissue activity which have been collected 
by the circulating blood. It is of thin, watery con- 
sistency, pale yellow in color, and has a slight odor. 
The quantity of the urine varies with the size of 
the dog and the nature of the diet. In medium- 

i6 



Care of the Dog 



sized dogs there is from one-half to one and a half 
pints of urine a day. The frequency of urination 
depends upon the number of opportunities provided. 
The well-trained house dog will hold his water for 
twenty-four hours, if necessary. Dogs having their 
freedom will urinate as frequently as a post presents 
itself for use. 

Character and Quantity. — The character and 
quantity of the urine is changed in many diseases, 
but for all ordinary purposes the regular passage is 
all that need be kept in mind. The abnormal con- 
ditions which must be recognized and attended to 
are: Frequent attempts at urination followed only 
by the passage of a few drops; urine of a dark, 
dirty brown color ; frequent passage of large quan- 
tities of urine; and absolute stoppage of urination. 
When the urine is passed but once or twice a day 
the odor is often increased and its consistency be- 
comes thick and viscid. Such urine frequently 
stains. 

Coat 

The proper care of the coat is of great impor- 
tance since the beauty of the animal is in so many 
breeds dependent on the condition of the hair. 
Many people are attracted by long-haired dogs 
solely because of their beautiful luxuriant coats. 
Needless to say, in these types a ragged, scrawny 
coat detracts much from the value of the dog. The 
condition of the coat is indicative of the physical 

17 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

condition of the dog and is evidence of the care it 
receives. In certain debilitating diseases the hair 
becomes coarse, dry, rough, and lusterless. In pup- 
pies suffering from digestive disturbances, worms, 
rickets, and distemper, the coat becomes unthrifty. 
This condition is seen in old dogs affected v^ith 
malignant tumors, malnutrition, and chronic febrile 
diseases. In all skin diseases the hair loses its tone 
and starts to fall out. In healthy animals if the 
hair is given proper attention it is bright, glossy, 
soft, and full of tone, but if neglected or improperly 
cared for, it becomes dull, harsh and brittle. 

Description of the Coats. — There are three types 
of coats, determined by the length of the hair and 
its texture. These are: (i) The short-haired or 
smooth-coated dogs, such as the Boston Terrier; 
(2) the wire-haired, such as the Airedale, and the 
long-haired, such as the Collie. 

Short-haired Coat. — This is made up of short, 
straight hairs of equal length which lie smoothly 
on the surface of the skin. In texture it may be 
either fine or coarse, but never as rough and harsh 
as the wire hair. The finer and shorter the hair 
the greater is its gloss. Such a coat requires a 
minimum amount of care to keep it in shape. Ex- 
cept where the color is white it does not need 
frequent bathing because the dirt can be easily re- 
moved by brushing. This coat does not have to be 
clipped and the shedding process is short and not 
especially annoying. The dog's appearance is 

18 



Care of the Do^ 



always good and it takes but a short time to put 
him in shape for showing. 

Wire-haired Coat. — The comparatively short 
hairs of this coat are of coarse, harsh texture and 
somewhat wavy but not curly in appearance. The 
hair may or may not be dense but is rough and wiry. 
!A.s a rule, this coat is impervious to water and 
bathing is difficult, consequently it has to be 
cleaned largely with the brush. These dogs are 
never clipped but shedding is helped by plucking 
out the dead hairs. 

Long-haired Coat. — There are two types of 
long-haired coats, differing only with the presence 
of the under coat. Setters and Spaniels have but 
one long outer coat, while Collies, Chows and Pom- 
eranians have in addition a short, woolly under- 
growth. The long hairs are soft and silky and have 
a tendency to wave or curl. The under coat con- 
sists of short, stiff, curly hairs which are thickly 
placed. The coat is soft, oily and glistening. It 
has a habit of matting down, forming a thick pad 
which serves as a protection against cold and storm. 
To keep this coat in condition it is necessary to 
give it frequent combing and brushing. Because of 
the difficulty in removing the dirt by this method 
the dog must be washed quite often, but this must 
be avoided as much as possible since it is very hard 
to dry the hair properly. The shedding process is 
prolonged, and about the house the dogs are on this 
account a great annoyance. Clipping is sometimes 

19 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

desirable for the comfort of the animal but it often 
spoils the coat. Skin diseases are very prevalent 
in long-haired dogs. 

Cleaning the Coat. — Smooth-coated dogs can be 
efficiently cleaned by brushing and combing. For 
this purpose an ordinary hairbrush will suffice. 
The hair should first be stirred up with a vigorous 
brushing and finished by smoothing it in the di- 
rection it should naturally lie by alternate strokes 
of the brush and the hand. The gloss may be 
improved by wiping the hair with a cloth dampened 
with oil. 

For the wire-haired dogs a stiff brush with long 
hard bristles is best. The hair can be thoroughly 
cleaned by haphazard strokes of the brush in all 
directions. Brushing the coat in the ordinary way 
will soften the hair and make it lie smooth, a con- 
dition which is not to be desired in dogs of this 
type. After a thorough brushing the coat can be 
given a hand massage which will rough up the hair. 
Oil should never be used on this coat. 

Long-haired dogs must be first combed to remove 
the snarls, the dead under coat, and the loose hairs. 
It may then be thoroughly brushed with a heavy 
stiff bristled brush and finished with a light soft 
brush. The oiled cloth will add to the gloss but can- 
not be used in all types. When a ruff is desired it 
can be worked up with the hand or brush last. 

Bathing. — Too frequent bathing is more detri- 
mental to the coat than not enough. It irritates the 

20 



Care of the Dog 



skin and causes eczema. In winter it chaps the 
skin and makes it rough, cracked, and sore. It re- 
moves the natural oil from the hair and leaves it 
dry and harsh. It weakens the animal and paves 
the way for bronchitis, pneumonia, and distemper. 
White dogs must necessarily be bathed more often 
than those of dark color, and lap dogs more fre- 
quently than those running in the yard. The actions 
of the individual determine, to a great extent, the 
frequency of the bath. Some animals are naturally 
clean and take great pride in keeping their coats in 
fine condition, while others delight in rolling in all 
the dirt to be found. The average house dog 
should be washed once in two weeks, but when it is 
possible to stretch the interval to a month it is 
wise to do so. White dogs and toys will have to 
be bathed from one to seven times a week. 

Dogs should not be bathed when suffering from 
any febrile disease. When there is any upset of the 
intestinal tract baths should be avoided. Very thin 
and emaciated dogs are in a too weakened condi- 
tion to withstand bathing. Puppies, unless vigorous 
and healthy, should not be washed before they are 
at least four months old. Females must not be 
bathed while in season. 

Soap. — Any good white soap such as Ivory, 
Fairy, and Marseilles may be used. If the skin is 
sore it is advisable to use pure Castile soap. Scented 
toilet soaps, liquid shampoo soaps, and tar soap are 
allowable. Medicated soaps are not necessary and 

21 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

are apt to irritate the skin. Strong alkaline soaps 
are detrimental to the hair because of their oil 
solvent action. Liquid soaps are more convenient 
and cake soap may be reduced by cutting it in fine 
pieces, and dissolving in boiling water. 

Bath. — Puppies are usually frightened during 
their first bath and will try to get away. If badly 
handled, they will always fight their bath, hence 
great care must be spent in getting them used to the 
procedure. The dog should be placed in a dry tub 
and accustomed to it. His face and feet can be 
washed first, with water from a basin. As he 
becomes used to the water it can be poured into 
the tub, little by little, until there is sufficient for 
the bath. The hair of the body can be saturated 
by scooping the water up by the hand. Dogs that 
like the bath may be induced to lie in the water, 
or it can be poured over them with a dipper. After 
the hair is saturated, the soap can be applied, the 
lather being thoroughly worked through the hair to 
the skin in order to dislodge all of the dirt. The 
soap is then washed out and the dog thoroughly 
rinsed with clear water. The first water should be 
hot and the rinsing water cooled as much as the dog 
is able to stand. If the bathtub is used the water 
can be gradually cooled by the shower arrangement. 
The first bath should be made as short as possible, 
both because of the dog's fear and the danger of 
his contracting a cold. 

22 



Care of the Dog 



Drying. — Now comes the hardest part of the job. 
The thoroughness with which the dog need be dried 
will depend on the kind of animal he is and the 
condition of the weather. The small toys must be 
absolutely dry, while in the large strong dogs only 
the bulk of the water need be removed. In winter, 
drying is more important than in summer. The 
hair is first squeezed with the hands until all of the 
water possible has been removed and then towels 
are used to absorb the moisture, one after another, 
as fast as they become wet. If they have been pre- 
viously warmed so much the better. The rubbing 
should be continued until it is impossible to dampen 
a towel, then the hair may be rubbed with the hands 
until the dampness disappears. The snarls are now 
removed with a brush and comb and if the dog 
is a long-haired toy he should be rolled in a blanket, 
and if the weather is cold he may be placed by the 
radiator. After he is warm, unwrap him and 
make him run briskly about the house. He should 
not be taken out of doors until the next day, unless 
the weather is very warm. In midsummer the sun- 
shine and air will help to dry his coat but some of 
the more fragile dogs cannot withstand even this 
exposure. 

Clipping. — Clipping spoils the coat for some time. 
The texture of the hair is rarely as fine and silky 
after it has been cut. The hair is dull and stiff and 
does not lie as smooth as before. There are, how- 
ever, times when it is necessary, or at least ad- 

23 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

visable. When the dog is affected with any serious 
or extensive skin disease, the speed with which it is 
cured depends upon the thoroughness of the appli- 
cation of the remedies. It is almost impossible to 
work an ointment or lotion into all parts of the 
skin when it is covered with a heavy coating of 
hair. In such conditions the hair usually comes 
out before the cure is obtained, and the new growth 
of hair following such a disease is of about the 
same texture as it is after clipping, so there is no 
particular disadvantage in removing the hair at the 
beginning. Large fat dogs suffer greatly in sum- 
mer if covered with a heavy coat, and it is more 
humane to remove it. 

The coat may be entirely removed, and in the 
treatment of skin diseases this is necessary, or it 
may be clipped according to the prevailing fashion 
for the breed in question. The clipping should 
be done by one who is experienced with the 
operation and one who is kind and careful with 
the animal. Even the most skilled sometimes 
scrape or cut the animal. The most impor- 
tant precaution is to find a man who uses care 
in keeping his instruments clean. Dirty, unwashed 
clippers are frequently responsible for the spread- 
ing of mange and ringworm. In case it is known 
that the animal is suffering from a contagious dis- 
ease the clipper should be so informed, in order that 
he may exercise care in cleaning his instruments 
after clipping the dog. After the hair has been 

24 



Care of the Dog 



removed the dog should be thoroughly anointed 
with an antiseptic oil and later given a good hot 
bath. If there are any cuts or scratches these 
should be painted with iodine and smeared with 
berated vaseline. 

Oiling the Hair. — In those dogs where a fine silky 
coat is desired it is well to add to the natural supply 
of oil, especially if the dog is frequently bathed. 
Puppies are often slow in developing a coat and 
oil will help its growth considerably. As a result 
of skin diseases the hair is usually dry and dull, 
and after clipping it is apt to be stiff and hard; 
if oil is supplied it will hasten the recovery of the 
coat. 

There are two ways of applying the oil. It may 
be liberally smeared over the body a half hour 
before the bath. In case the hair is especially dry 
the bath may be postponed for twenty-four hours. 
This should not be done, however, in very frail 
animals if the weather is cold. A better procedure 
is to apply the oil after the bath when the hair is 
thoroughly dry. The oil is massaged into the hair 
with the hands. After the application has been made 
the hair is rubbed with a dry cloth to remove the 
excess. Oil may be applied in this way at frequent 
intervals. 

The oils to be used are: Cocoanut, olive, and 
mineral oils, white or light amber vaseline. Crude 
oil may be used if a good quality can be obtained. 

25 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

Cottonseed oil is good for the hair but is quite 
sticky. Sulphur may be added to the oil if the 
skin is at all inclined to be red. 



Teeth 

"^umh^v— Puppy Teeth. — There are thirty-two 
puppy or milk teeth, consisting of six incisors or 
front teeth, two canine or corners, and eight molars 
or grinders on each jaw. The process of eruption 
begins at about the third week and usually extends 
over a period of two weeks so that at five weeks 
all of the milk teeth should be through. They 
erupt rapidly, as a rule, giving no trouble. 

Permanent Teeth. — The permanent set consists 
of forty-two teeth arranged the same as the puppy 
teeth, with the addition of four large grinders on 
the upper jaw, and six on the lower. Their erup- 
tion begins about the third or fourth month and is 
usually completed by the time the dog is seven 
months old. 

Eruption. — During the process of teething the 
gums become very red and swollen and there is an 
increased flow of saliva. In some cases the inflam- 
mation is intense and there is a loss of appetite and 
occasionally convulsions. It frequently happens that 
the second incisors and canines come in before the 
puppy teeth drop out and unless the latter are re- 
moved they will force the new teeth to one side and 
themselves become permanent, leaving the dog with 

26 



Care of the Dog 



a double set of teeth; this is very unsightly. It is 
difficult to extract these teeth, because of the long 
root which is firmly imbedded in the jaw, and un- 
less great care is exercised in their removal, the 
tooth may be broken, leaving the root for further 
trouble. 

Tartar. — Ordinarily a dog's teeth require no at- 
tention, but owing to the abnormal condition under 
which we are keeping the house dog to-day, much 
trouble is arising from their neglect. Tartar is a 
calcareous deposit on the neck of the teeth at the 
border of the gums. It is a gray, yellow, or brown- 
ish color and is hard and brittle in composition. On 
accumulating in sufficient quantities, it pushes back 
the gums, laying bare the root of the tooth, which 
is thereby loosened. The food particles are de- 
posited about it, causing irritation and decay. The 
tartar accumulation may be prevented by cleaning 
the teeth occasionally with water, using cotton swabs 
as a brush. Plain water, a solution of table salt, 
bicarbonate of soda, or hydrogen peroxide may be 
used. The peroxide tends to dissolve the tartar, 
making its removal much easier. Some of the tooth 
powders used by man are often applied, but with 
more or less difficulty. After a large deposit has 
formed it must be removed by means of special in- 
struments. This is a slow, tedious process and one 
which the dog will surely resist. After the tartar 
has been removed the gums frequently need treat- 
ment, especially where they have receded. For this 

27 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

purpose solutions of permanganate of potash or 
boric acid are best. 

^ Toothache. — ^There is no reason to believe that 
dogs do not suffer from toothache as well as man, 
since the same pathological conditions are found in 
both. Of course, the nervous mechanism of the 
dog is not so acute as man's, nevertheless, pain in 
many cases can be demonstrated. A painful tooth 
can be detected by tapping it gently with a metal 
object; this causes a sharp throb of the jaw. The 
cause of toothache is decay of the tooth, decay of 
the tissue around it, or abscess formation at the 
base of the root. 

Decayed and Loose Teeth. — The teeth of the dog 
are not so subject to decay as are the pockets in 
which they are imbedded. However, in cases where 
the tooth is broken, laying bare the sensitive struc- 
tures to the influence of infection and food, the 
tooth will commence to decay. Inflammation of 
the lining of the pockets in which the teeth are 
placed comes about through receding of the gums, 
due to tartar formation. As the condition pro- 
gresses the teeth loosen and finally fall out. Ab- 
scesses may form at the base of the root, causing 
the inflammation to start at that end. These ab- 
scesses often break through the jaw, causing fistula. 
In this condition surgical intervention is necessary 
and the sooner it is applied the fewer teeth will be 
lost. In toy spaniels, especially, the front teeth 

28 



Care of the Dog 



loosen at a very early age and in spite of rigid 
treatment are often lost prematurely. 

Ears 

The ears of dogs are subject to a very annoying 
disease known as canker. The condition is a form 
of eczema and is preventable, providing proper care 
is given the animal. There is in the ear a normal 
secretion of wax, yellow in color, thick and sticky 
in consistency. Its purpose is to keep the membrane 
oily and act as a protector. Under certain condi- 
tions the membrane of the ear becomes inflamed 
and the secretion more abundant and of a different 
character. It may be thin, yellow, and sticky, or 
mixed with pus, but ordinarily it is brownish black, 
thin and sticky or thick and dry. The condition is 
brought about in the same way as ordinary eczema, 
but sometimes is due to a parasite like that causing 
mange. If the system of the dog is out of con- 
dition on account of improper feeding and lack of 
exercise, if the vitality is lowered by some de- 
bilitating disease, or if the wax of the ear has been 
dissolved by the application of soapy water, then 
the membranes of the ear become inflamed by the 
presence of some irritating substance and the dis- 
charge makes its appearance. Canker of the ear is 
painful and irritating, and forces the dog to scratch 
his ears so much that he often inflicts wounds on 
the ear and adjacent skin. 

29 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

To prevent a canker from forming it is necessary 
to clean out the ear occasionally. This is best accom- 
plished after the bath in order that no water may be 
left in the ear. A swab can be made by rolling a piece 
of cotton around the end of an orange wood stick 
or a match. A toothpick should not be used be- 
cause it is too sharp and might injure the ear. By 
means of the swab the outer canal of the ear can be 
cleaned of dirt, discharge, and water, and then an 
antiseptic talcum powder or dry boric acid can be 
dusted into the ear. In animals that have been 
troubled with canker it is well to plug the ears with 
cotton previous to the bath, after which the ear 
may be cleaned. If the trouble has already de- 
veloped the treatment may be carried out in the 
same way, but if the disease does not readily re- 
spond, more vigorous methods must be employed. 

Eyes 

The eyes of some dogs, especially toy poodles, 
habitually discharge a watery secretion which stains 
the hairs beneath a brownish color. Such eyes 
should be washed daily with hot boric acid solu- 
tion. The stain can be removed from the hair by 
the application of hydrogen peroxide. The mem- 
branes around the eye and sometimes the cornea of 
the eye becomes inflamed in connection with a cold 
or with distemper. For this the hot boric acid may 
be used several times a day and in addition one or 

30 



Care of the Dog" 



two drops of a weak solution of argyrol may be 
put directly into the eye. Cats when fighting 
with dogs invariably aim for their eyes and usually 
succeed in inflicting an injury. This may be treated 
at very frequent intervals with boric acid, or a 
piece of cotton saturated with the antiseptic may 
be tied over the eyes until aid can be summoned. 
Pekingese and Japanese Spaniels have such promi- 
nent eyes that it is not a rare occurrence for the 
eye to be forced out of the socket. A veterinarian 
should be called as soon as possible to replace the 
eye, but in the meantime it should be thoroughly 
washed with cold water and then covered with a 
pack of cold boric acid. 



Nails 

The nails of some house pets grow much faster 
than they can be worn down with the limited ex- 
ercise the animals receive; consequently the nails 
must be occasionally clipped. On the hind legs of 
many dogs are extra toes, called dewclaws, and 
since these toes do not touch the ground there is no 
wear on the nails and they frequently grow so long 
that they penetrate the skin on the foot-pad. This 
condition is known as ingrowing nails. It is ex- 
ceedingly painful and should not be allowed to 
occur. The nails may be regularly filed with a nail 
file or clipped with heavy shears. In cutting the 
nails, one should avoid penetrating the sensitive 

31 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

structure inside the nail. The nail can be snipped 
off a little at a time until the dog shows evidence of 
discomfort. Should the sensitive toe be cut it must 
be dressed with some antiseptic for a period of 
twelve hours. 



CHAPTER II 



MEDICAL CARE 



Sooner or later, the owner will have occasion to 
give his dog medical attention, either on his own 
initiative or following the doctor's instructions, 
therefore, a knowledge of how to proceed will be 
of value to him. The successful treatment depends 
almost as much on the efficiency of the care and 
nursing as on the medication. It is surprising how 
few people know the simplest facts concerning the 
care of a sick animal. 

Administration of Medicines 

There are various ways by which medicines may 
be given. The most common route is by way of 
the mouth. 

Oral — Liquids. — Many dogs object to taking 
medicine, especially when it is in the form of a 
liquid. With these animals it is necessary to use 
force and an assistant is needed to help with the 
operation. The dog should be placed on a table 
in a sitting position with his back next to the as- 
sistant's abdomen. The assistant should then grasp 
the forelegs of the dog with his hand of the cor- 
responding side, allowing the arms to press lightly 

33 



Your Do§r and Your Cat 

along the dog's ribs. Under such restraint the dog 
will be unable to move in any direction. If only a 
small quantity of liquid is to be given a spoon may 
be used, but for larger quantities it is better to pro- 
vide a bottle. A suitable dosing bottle may be made 
by fitting a piece of rubber tubing about two inches 
long over the neck of a one ounce bottle. The pur- 
pose of the tubing is to avoid getting the bottle 
too close to his teeth so that if he should bite he 
would get the tubing rather than the bottle. 

When the dose has been prepared, grasp the lip 
of the dog at the extreme right hand corner of the 
mouth with the left hand and pull outward and 
upward in such a way as to form a pouch of the 
cheek. Take the bottle in the right hand and pour 
a small quantity of the liquid into the pocket. If 
the dog refuses to swallow after a reasonable length 
of time, pinch the nostrils so as to shut off his 
wind. This will usually induce swallowing, but 
the more stubborn dogs will hold out until they are 
forced to cough. With this event it is necessary 
to free the animal quickly and wait until he is again 
breathing freely. The operation may then be re- 
peated by introducing small quantities of the medi- 
cine at a time until all has been taken. Beginners 
are bound to lose a part of the dose in the first 
attempts, but it is possible, with practice, to ad- 
minister to the most obstinate, the bitterest of doses. 
In the case of oil or any medicine where the dose 
is elastic, more can be given to make up for the 

34 



Medical Care 



loss, but with strong drugs it is better that the dog 
get the small dose rather than take the chance of 
an overdose. 

Tablets. — In giving capsules or tablets the man- 
ner of holding the mouth for receiving the medi- 
cine is slightly different. Grasp the upper jaw 
from above with the thumb and forefinger of the 
left hand and press the cheeks against the gums 
just back of the corner teeth; this will force the 
mouth open. The tablet is then placed as far back 
on the tongue as possible and after quickly with- 
drawing the hand, the mouth is tightly and rapidly 
closed. The jaws are held shut to prevent the dog 
from chewing or working the tablet forward with 
his tongue. After he has swallowed a couple of 
times examine the mouth to be sure he has the 
medicine. The tablet may be put in the mouth with 
the fingers, a pair of thumb forceps or a spoon. 
The spoon, which is more universally used in the 
house, must have a handle which curves upwards, 
otherwise the tablet will slide off too easily. Grasp 
the spoon by the bowl and place the tablet in the 
curve of the handle. In carrying it into the mouth 
press down the tongue, so that the tablet will roll 
back over its thickened portion. 

Powders. — Powders that are soluble can be dis- 
solved in Water and given with a spoon or bottle. 
Insoluble powders are dusted into the mouth far 
back on the tongue. 

The most usual cause of failure in giving medi- 

35 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

cine is the lack of firmness and determination on the 
part of the operator. The least struggle by the dog 
usually wins his release and he soon learns that he 
does not have to take the dose if he only puts up 
a little resistance. A dog to be desirable as a pet 
should be under the control of his master for his 
own good as well as his owner's, and the man who 
has been intimidated by his dog had best dispose of 
him. Discipline does not entail hardship for the 
dog but makes his relation with his owner much 
more agreeable. 

Medicine Given in the Food. — When small quan- 
tities of medicine without a disagreeable taste are 
to be given, and the time of administration is at the 
regular meal hour, they may be put in the food, 
unless it has been otherwise directed. Liquids and 
powders are mixed with the food, and tablets con- 
cealed in a small ball of meat. It is often desirable 
to give tablets in this way at other than meal time 
and there is no harm in the procedure, unless for 
some reason the dog should not have food. 

Special Rules Governing Medicines. — Castor oil 
is difficult and dangerous to administer. Cold oil 
is thick and pours hard, but if the dose bottle con- 
taining the oil is immersed in hot water for a 
few minutes it will flow much more freely, and by 
the way, the action will be quickened. When mixed 
with syrup of buckthorn it is more pleasant to take, 
but its action is more drastic. Care must be taken 
in its administration that the dog does not choke 

36 



Medical Care 



and inhale some of the oil, for if it should get into 
the lungs it will set up a violent, if not fatal, pneu- 
monia. After giving oil, no water or food should 
be allowed for several hours since vomiting would 
be induced and the action of the oil lost. Some 
dogs cannot stand castor oil and immediately vomit 
it. In these cases it is better to use some other 
purgative, but if the oil must be administered it 
should be in small and repeated doses. When giv- 
ing any of the salines such as epsom salts, citrate 
of magnesia, or milk of magnesia, water will aid 
their action and should be given freely, unless the 
dog is vomiting. 

No medicines containing carbolic acid, mercury, 
arsenic, or strychnine should be given, except under 
a doctor's direction, and when these or any other 
strong remedies are used they should be stopped 
immediately if the bowels or kidneys fail to function. 

Rectal. — Treatment is given through the rectum 
to relieve constipation and remove foreign bodies, 
to overcome inflammation of the rectum and anus 
and to administer food. The principal means are 
enemas and suppositories. 

Enemas. — An enema to relieve constipation is 
prepared by dissolving Castile soap in hot water, to 
which a little glycerin may be added. Sometimes 
castor or mineral oils are used. The amount to be 
given depends on the size of the dog; in toys and 
puppies, one to four ounces is sufficient, while in 
large dogs, as much as a pint may be given. For 

37 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

ordinary purposes, one ounce for toys and four for 
the larger dogs is the proper dose. In the case of 
small amounts an infant's rectal syringe is con- 
venient to use; for larger quantities an ordinary 
douche bag is best. For high enema a piece of 
soft rubber tubing, six or eight inches long, may be 
placed over the hard rubber tip. A glass tip should 
never be used. Before the tip is inserted in the 
rectum it must be lubricated with oil or vaseline. 
It should not be forced, but slowly and carefully 
worked into the rectum. The liquid should be 
allowed to enter the rectum slowly, and the flow 
stopped when the animal begins to strain. After 
giving the enema the dog should be placed where 
he can void the fecal matter without fear. When 
the dog uses his pan or paper he can be given the 
enema near it, but if he is an out-of-door dog and 
conditions are such that he cannot go out, he can 
be placed in the bath tub. In giving a high enema 
the lower bowel should be emptied first, and then 
the soft rubber tube put over the tip and worked as 
far up into the bowel as possible without using force. 
For feeding purposes eggs, milk, broth, meat 
juice, and gruels are used. The food should be 
heated to a little above body temperature and given 
in small quantities and slowly, in order that they 
may be retained. The rectum must first be emptied 
of fecal matter with a soap enema and then washed 
out with a weak salt solution — a teaspoonful of 
table salt to a cup of warm water. 

38 



Medical Care 



Suppositories. — Glycerin suppositories are used 
when a normal stool is formed but retained because 
of fear, pain, or stagnation of the rectum. The 
regular infant's size is adaptable for canines. In 
absence of these, serviceable suppositories may be 
fashioned from a piece of castile or ivory soap 
about the size of a lead pencil and about one inch 
in length. They should be made smooth and blunt 
to facilitate insertion. If moistened with water just 
before they are used their insertion will be easier. 
Medicated suppositories are often used in the treat- 
m^t of inflammation of the rectum and anus. 

Inhalations. — Although not used to any extent in 
canine practice, because of the dog's intolerance and 
the difficulty of administration, inhalations are 
sometimes of great value. In cases of cold in the 
head, sore throat, or bronchitis, where the mem- 
branes are dry and irritated, steam inhalations have 
a marked soothing effect. The method of applica- 
tion is simple, but difficulty is met in getting the 
dog to submit. To a pint of boiling water the pre- 
scribed remedy is added, placed in a dish which 
will not easily tip over. The dog's head is held 
over the dish and usually a second person will have 
to assist in keeping him quiet. A towel is drawn 
over the dog's nose, so as to exclude the eyes, and 
is allowed to fall about the dish. The steam arising 
from the dish is collected under the cone shape 
of the towel and directed to the dog's nose. If 
he resists the first attempts too strongly, it will be 

39 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

better not to force the matter, but desist till later, 
when another attempt can be made. 

When a dog is unconscious following a fit or a 
fall, he may be quickly revived by the fumes of 
aromatic spirits of ammonia. A piece of cotton 
saturated with the ammonia is held to the nose. If 
the dog is not breathing, artificial respiration must 
be forced by pressing the chest at regular intervals. 

Vaginal. — The introduction of foreign substances 
into the vagina is attended with great danger and 
should not be attempted by any one not thoroughly 
familiar with the operation. Those who breed 
dogs, however, will be frequently called upon to 
douche their bitches and a knowledge of the pro- 
cedure will not come amiss. All water used should 
be boiled and the douche bags, pans, etc., thoroughly 
cleaned. The hair and skin around the vagina must 
be well washed to rid it of any dirt or discharge. 
The hand of the operator must be absolutely clean. 
The dog is held by an assistant with one hand on 
the neck and the other under the abdomen. The 
douche bag may be held by a third person or fast- 
ened about two feet above the animal. Plain boiled 
water may be used or table salt may be added in 
the proportions of a tablespoonful to the quart. 
This should be as hot as the hand can comfortably 
bear. The end of the tube is lubricated with olive 
oil or vaseline and inserted into the vagina from 
one to two inches and a part of the solution used. 
After this has been forced out, more is allowed 

40 



Medical Care 



to run in, and the operation is continued until the 
douching is completed. The forequarters of the 
dog are then elevated and the abdomen massaged 
backwards in order entirely to empty the vagina. 
For small dogs a pint, and for larger dogs up to 
two quarts, of solution are needed to cleanse the 
vagina. 

External Applications — For Skin Diseases, — 
Medicines for treatment of skin diseases are applied 
to the skin in the form of oily lotions, ointments, 
watery solutions, and powders. Alcoholic solutions 
were formerly used extensively and were of great 
value, but, their use has been curtailed because of 
the prohibitive price of alcohol. 

The character of the lesion determines the kind 
of an application most suitable. Moist lesions re- 
quire drying drugs and dry scaly sores need oily 
solutions or ointments. In acute conditions noth- 
ing but the mildest of remedies should be used, 
while chronic sores require the stimulation of irri- 
tating remedies. 

The method of application depends on the char- 
acter and extent of the injury. On small acute 
lesions such as burns, an ointment should be thickly 
smeared over the surface, exercising care to avoid 
injuring the skin. On old chronic sores the lotion 
should be well rubbed in since the massage helps to 
stimulate repair. Remedies strong enough to de- 
stroy mange must be applied sparingly because of 
the nature of the drug, but well rubbed in, for the 

41 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

parasites are found in the deep layers of the skin. 
If the whole body surface is involved, only a por- 
tion of it, say a third, should be treated at a time, 
because of the danger of absorption and because 
oily solutions, in particular, when applied over the 
entire body surface lower the vitality of the animal. 

For Underlying Conditions. — Edema of the skin, 
bruises of the muscles, strains of ligaments and 
tendons, fracture of bones, rheumatism, and par- 
alysis are treated by the application of water, lini- 
ments, lotions and massage. Cold water may be 
applied by bathing or by packs. The packs may 
be laid over the region at frequent intervals or 
bound to it. Ice bags are often used when intense 
cold is desired. Heat is applied by wringing towels 
from very hot water and applying them to the in- 
jured part. To be of value the water must be just 
below boiling, so that it must be squeezed from the 
towel with a dipper or other metal tool, and the 
towel applied as soon as it can be held in the 
hands. Another towel should be in the water, ready 
to be applied as soon as the heat is gone from the 
first. A flannel should be put over the part after 
the steaming is completed. 

Liniments and lotions are applied to injured parts 
either for their rubefacient action or to dull the 
pain. Massage is of value in chronic conditions 
where the blood supply is deficient. This may be 
applied by rubbing the parts or picking at the skin 
with the hands, or using the vibrator. 

42 



Medical Care 



The Use and Abuse of Medicines 

Medicines are of untold value in the treatment 
of disease, but they have their limitations like every- 
thing else. The knowledge of the properties and 
actions of drugs and their correct application in the 
treatment of disease involves a very extensive study 
which can only be mastered by those who devote 
themselves wholly to that work. The idea that 
certain drugs cure certain diseases is false, for only 
in a few exceptional cases is there any drug specific 
for a certain condition, nor is there any group of 
drugs which is applicable to all cases of the same 
disease. Nevertheless, the sale of proprietary cures 
is a very flourishing business. The correct treat- 
ment of a disease consists of eliminating the cause, 
lightening the work of the defective organ, and 
facilitating the work of nature in perfecting the 
repair, in conjunction with such remedies as will 
best aid the process. The irrational use of medicines 
without a knowledge of why they are given tends 
to defeat the purpose for which they are intended. 
The design of the modern practitioner is to pre- 
vent disease rather than merely to cure sickness. 
The Health Department and the Bureau of Animal 
Industry consider their work to be the prevention 
of disease rather than the cure. Those who are en- 
trusted with the care of animals are in closer con- 
tact with them and are in a better position to carry 
out these plans. To accomplish this successfully, 

43 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

will require a sufficient range of study and amount 
of work to absorb the time and thought of the ordi- 
nary person, without assuming the responsibilities 
of administering drugs about which he has no 
knowledge. 

Many bad practices have sprung up in the canine 
field which ought to be corrected. Castor oil is our 
best remedy for cleaning out the intestinal tract, 
but the habitual use of it at regular intervals is a 
bad practice and tends to lessen its effect on the 
system. If the animal is kept right and fed right 
there is no need of regular purgation, and even 
when it is needed, recourse should be had to milder 
remedies which will have a more lasting effect. 
Cathartic pills are even worse than castor oil. Fol- 
lowing their repeated use a habitual constipation de- 
velops, which is difficult to overcome. 

The idea generally prevails among dog owners 
that all dogs are infested with worms and must be 
regularly treated for them. While worms are more 
or less prevalent among dogs, the disasters result- 
ing from them are less than from the violent action 
of some of the remedies which are given to remove 
them. The purging of dogs with drastic worm 
medicines is always attended with grave danger 
and should be carried out only by those thoroughly 
familiar with the action and dosage of the remedies 
given. 

A large percentage of skin diseases is due to 
dietary disorders and intestinal diseases rather than 

44 



Medical Care 



to mange parasites. Treatment of these conditions 
depends, therefore, more on the correction of the 
underlying condition than on the external applica- 
tion of skin lotions. Remedies sufficiently strong to 
destroy the mange organism are far too violent for 
other skin disorders. To overcome or prevent these 
conditions it has become a quite general practice to 
put sulphur in the drinking water. While sulphur 
is of unquestionable value in treating these condi- 
tions, its administration in this manner is inefficient 
because of the fact that it is not soluble and except 
for the odor it imparts to the water has no effect. 
At the present time there is no known distemper 
cure. Treatment of this disease depends to a great 
extent on hygiene, intensive feeding, and careful 
nursing. Such medical treatment as is used must 
be directed toward the abnormal symptoms present 
in the individual case. No stock preparation can 
be depended upon to carry out these intentions. The 
use of serum has become quite extensive and in the 
hands of a veterinarian who understands its actions 
and indications, this type of medication may prove 
of much benefit. 

Home Treatment 

It is neither possible nor necessary to call profes- 
sional aid for all of the dog's minor ailments pro- 
viding the owner is capable of discerning between 
minor conditions and those of grave importance. 

45 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

This faculty comes more from experience than 
from any other source. There are, however, many 
ways by which the severity of an illness may be 
judged. A clinical thermometer is a very valuable 
adjunct to the household. A dog sick enough to 
carry a temperature of 103° F. or above is too sick 
for one to take chances with his recovery. In many 
diseases the appearance of a fever may act as an 
indication of when to stop home treatment and 
seek the help of a doctor. A cold in the head is not 
dangerous until a fever develops, but on its appear- 
ance, bronchitis, pneumonia, or distemper may be 
expected. Constipation should respond to home 
treatment, but failure to get results in seventy-two 
hours or the appearance of a fever indicates that 
the condition is of grave importance. When a 
diarrhea does not respond in a few days to ordi- 
nary treatment or when it is accompanied by fever, 
the case should be given outside aid. Vomiting 
should not be allowed to persist for any length of 
time. Simple wounds may be treated by ordinary 
antiseptic methods unless the presence of fever 
sends forth warning of approaching blood poison- 
ing. Fractures, injuries, and convulsions require 
first aid, but should later be given expert care. The 
problem which confronts the owner is a knowledge 
of his own limitations and a willingness to admit 
his shortcomings. Better than to wait a few days 
to see if a condition will not improve, is an unneces- 
sary trip to the doctor. The money thus spent in- 

46 



Medical Care 



creases your knowledge of your dog and is a good 
insurance against a possible loss. 

Hospital 

Too many people are possessed of the idea that 
as soon as their dog is taken sick he must be put 
in a hospital. Nothing could be further from the 
truth. The trouble usually lies in their unwilling- 
ness to spend the time and trouble needed to nurse 
their pet. There are conditions which cannot be 
taken care of except where the facilities of the hos- 
pital are afforded. Operative cases, those requiring 
skilled nursing, or those hovering between life and 
death, are essentially hospital cases. Dogs which 
are suffering from the ordinary ailments are far 
better off at home under familiar surroundings and 
with familiar people than they are in strange places. 
They can be given much more individual attention 
at home than in the ordinary hospital. 

Hygienic Treatment for the Sick 

Quiet, absolute cleanliness, fresh air, a suitable 
temperature, good food, and last, but not least, 
companionship, are needed for the sick dog. He 
should not be forced to exercise when he is unwill- 
ing or unable to do so. If it is necessary to take 
him out of doors to clean himself do not go farther 
than the occasion demands. It is better to try to 

47 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

induce him to use a paper indoors. Where there 
are stairs to climb he should be carried if possible. 
Such conservation of energy will prove valuable 
to him. 

The dog and his quarters should be kept abso- 
lutely clean. Tub baths must be avoided, because 
they are weakening and expose the animal to colds, 
but any soiled parts can be sponged with hot water 
and thoroughly dried. His bed should be kept 
clean and fresh. His food should be freshly pre- 
pared at each offering and should be clean and 
wholesome. If the appetite fails, the dog can often 
be tempted to take food from his master's hand, 
when he would not touch it in a dish. 

The air in the room should be frequently changed 
and the temperature kept moderately warm and 
even. No drafts should be allowed to strike the 
dog. His general comfort in every way should be 
provided. 

The sick dog should not be shut up in a room and 
left to his own devices, nor should he be put away 
in strange surroundings unless absolutely neces- 
sary, for an unaccustomed change will sometimes 
work havoc with a sensitive dog. The animal en- 
joys seeing his master and relies upon him to help 
him in his trouble. A word and a pat are worth 
more than drugs in curing many an ailment. 



CHAPTER III 

COMMON DISEASES OF DOGS 

Digestive Disturbances 

Indigestion. — Indigestion results from the partial 
or complete failure of the digestive organs to func- 
tion. It occurs most frequently in puppies and 
young dogs and especially in those whose vitality 
is low because of some debilitating condition, such 
as rickets or worms. Poodle, Pomeranian, Boston 
Terrier and Collie puppies are the breeds most com- 
monly affected. 

Cause. — Improper food: milk, potatoes, rice, 
cornmeal, sloppy foods and doughy masses; over- 
feeding: large quantities of bulky starchy foods and 
slops. Catarrh of the stomach and intestines, and 
constipation help to induce the condition. 

Symptoms. — In mild attacks the dog shows un- 
easiness after eating a large meal, runs about the 
room, occasionally lies down on his belly with his 
head on his forefeet stretched before him, rolls on 
his back with his feet in the air, crouches down with 
his head and forefeet low, and his hind parts high 
in the air. He may cry at intervals or he may keep 
it up continually. The abdomen is distended and 
painful. Short mild attacks may occur for several 
days without attracting attention. The appetite 

49 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

will, however, gradually fail. By that time the 
trouble will be aggravated by a small quantity of 
food. 

Severe attacks may follow a series of mild -ones 
or may occur suddenly after the ingestion of a 
particularly offensive meal. The dog becomes very 
restless, runs about in frenzy, throws himself vio- 
lently to the floor, only to get up immediately and 
run about again. The dog will shriek, at times 
constantly. The abdomen is very much distended, 
hard and painful. Unless the dog is given prompt 
attention, a severe attack will soon turn into a case 
of intoxication which is manifested by convulsions 
and depression. In neglected cases death soon 
follows. 

Prevention. — Indigestion may be prevented only 
by proper feeding. Few cases will occur in dogs 
given a concentrated nutritious diet. Milk is almost 
invariably the cause of indigestion. Dogs that are 
not doing well should receive careful attention to 
eliminate or overcome the cause, whether it be 
worms, rickets, or poor food. If the bowels are 
sluggish they should be corrected. 

Treatment. — With the first symptom of indiges- 
tion the doctor should be called. First aid treat- 
ment will consist of causing the dog to vomit 
through the administration of a large dose of 
table salt or a teaspoonful of mustard in hot water. 
After vomiting occurs the dog may be given a small 
dose of castor oil. 

50 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

Inflammation of Stomach and Intestines. — There 
are many forms of gastro-enteritis, depending on 
the severity and character of the causative agent. 
The inflammation may affect only the stomach or 
any region of the intestines, or it may involve the 
entire tract. In all cases the symptoms are about 
the same and without great experience it is im- 
possible to diagnose the exact location. 

Caicse. — Improper food, overfeeding, worms, 
foreign bodies, obstructions, and poisoning, either 
by drugs, spoiled food or toxins arising from faulty 
digestion. Gastro-enteritis may be associated with 
indigestion, intoxication, distemper, or rickets. A 
mild inflammation of several days' standing may 
suddenly develop into a violent form if neglected. 

Symptoms. — Depression, dullness, and loss of 
appetite are the first indication of trouble. The 
dog lies about in dark corners, feigning sleep. He 
is reluctant about coming out for his food, of which 
he takes but little and perhaps none at all. The 
symptoms occur gradually in a mild case, but very 
rapidly when the condition has been caused by some 
violent irritant, such as poisoning by arsenic. Pain 
is always present, varying in degree with the 
severity of the attack. He may lie on his back, 
bite at his flank, and show distress from pressure 
over the abdomen, or he may lie flat on his side, 
breathe hard, and groan with every breath. The 
temperature when normal or slightly raised indi- 
cates that the condition is mild, while a fever of 

SI 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

103° F. means that the animal is in a serious con- 
dition. In the last stages, however, the temperature 
will be below normal. Vomiting is a prominent 
symptom and occurs early in the course of the dis- 
ease. The frequency and ease with which vomiting 
occurs increase as the condition progresses. The 
bowels are at first constipated but later diarrhea 
ensues. The first loose stools are soft and pasty, 
but later they become thin and watery and may be 
colored with blood. Evidence of hemorrhage is to 
be taken seriously. Violent diarrhea extending over 
a period of forty-eight hours is apt to be fatal. As 
the disease continues the dog becomes very weak 
and finally collapses. Convulsions may occur as 
evidence of general systemic poisoning. 

Prevention. — When the dog is given good nour- 
ishing food in proper quantities and at proper in- 
tervals, a great many of the causes of enteritis are 
eliminated. Foreign bodies are eaten generally as 
a result of a depraved appetite, due to a disorder 
of the stomach, but if the dog is cared for properly, 
this should not exist. If the dog is not given bones, 
nor allowed to play with a small ball, the danger 
of obstruction is slight. There is always a chance 
of accidental poisoning, but this does not happen as 
often as popularly supposed. Dogs are much more 
often poisoned by large doses of drastic worm 
remedies. 

Treatment. — Mild attacks may be treated by 
cleaning out the intestinal tract with a dose of 

52 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

castor oil, fasting the dog for twenty-four hours, 
and if the symptoms abate, put him on meager 
rations for a week. This diet should be principally 
meat. If the dog exhibits fever, vomits persistently, 
or has a bad diarrhea, he should immediately be 
placed under the doctor's care. 

Intoxication. — Intoxication is a poisoning of the 
system by the toxic by-products of digestion. These 
are usually eliminated in the feces, but when the 
bowels become sluggish or the process of digestion 
incomplete, the toxins accumulate in abnormal 
amounts and are absorbed into the system. This 
condition is very common and accounts for more 
deaths than any other form of poisoning. 

Symptoms. — Nervous twitching varying from 
slight movements of a set of muscles to violent 
spasms of the whole body musculature. The dog 
usually lies on his side and goes through the move- 
ments of running. Frothing at the mouth is present 
in most cases. The convulsions usually occur with- 
out warning and last from one to fifteen minutes. 
The dog may have one convulsion in twenty-four 
hours or he may have them as often as every fif- 
teen minutes, but he could not stand more than 
fifteen or twenty of them. After the convulsions 
the dog is very weak and will sleep for hours. 
Sometimes they go into a convulsion which lasts 
until death. 

Treatment. — The doctor should be summoned 
immediately. Until.^he arrives the dog must be 

'53 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

kept as quiet as possible, and during the intervening 
time cold swabs may be placed on his head. 

Vomiting. — Vomiting is a symptom of a dis- 
ordered stomach which may be either a disturbance 
of digestion or an inflammation of the mucous 
membranes. The stomach is subject to much abuse 
by frequent gorging with bulky, sloppy foods which 
are hard to digest. Coping with this day after day 
taxes the endurance of the organ and sooner or 
later it becomes exhausted. It is x^vy fortunate 
for the dog that he can vomit so easily, for as soon 
as the stomach reaches its limit, it promptly rebels. 
When this occurs all food and liquids should be 
witliheld for at least twenty-four hours, and longer 
if necessary. Too often this warning is unheeded 
and the indulgent ow^ner persists in giving one food 
after another in hopes of finding something that tlie 
dog can retain. This only wears out an exhausted 
organ and increases the disturbance already existing. 

The character of the vomit depends upon the 
nature of the trouble. When the stomach is merely 
overworked tlie vomit will consist of the offending 
food. A w4iite froth indicates an inflammation. 
If the liver is involved a greenish or yellow vomit 
occurs. 

Vomiting may occur only after eating, extend- 
ing over a protracted period, or it may take place 
at very frequent intervals throughout tlie day. 
When the vomiting is persistent the dog soon col- 
lapses and death rapidly follows. 

54 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

Treatment. — All food and water must be with- 
held for a period of twenty-four hours. If the 
bowels are constipated, the dog should be given an 
enema of soap solution. After this, subnitrate of 
bismuth may be given in five grain doses with a 
teaspoonful of milk of magnesia every two hours. 
If this is retained it may be continued for from 
four to six doses, depending on the character of 
the bowels, and then the bismuth may be given with- 
out the magnesia. If the vomiting is checked the 
dog may be given a small portion of scrapped beef, 
at the end of the twenty-four hour fast, followed 
a little later with a tablespoonful of water. If 
these are retained, they may be repeated at fre- 
quent intervals, gradually increasing the portions 
until the dog is back on his normal diet. If vomit- 
ing persists the doctor should be consulted. 

Diarrhea. — Diarrhea is a symptom indicating an 
inflammation of the intestines. It may be caused 
by improper feeding, spoiled food, poisons, irritat- 
ing drugs, and intoxication. It may accompany dis- 
turbances of the liver, rickets, and distemper. 

Symptoms. — The stools may be soft and pasty or 
thin and watery. They may be yellow, brown, black 
or red. In frequency they may vary from one every 
twenty-four hours to one every hour. As the dis- 
ease progresses the stools grow thinner in consist- 
ency and more frequent. 

Treatment. — With the first onset of diarrhea the 
animal should be given a purge to clean the intes- 

55 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

tinal tract of the offending material. Castor oil, 
citrate of magnesia, or epsom salts may be used in 
liberal doses. Food and water should be stopped 
for twenty-four hours. After purging, the dog can 
be given bismuth subnitrate in five or ten grain 
doses, every one to four hours, depending on the 
severity of the attack. Food when given should 
consist of small quantities of meat, with perhaps a 
puppy or dog biscuit at frequent intervals. Water, 
if given, should be boiled and allowed only in very 
small quantities at a time, but frequently. It Is 
better to use barley water, oatmeal gruel, or eggs 
with milk, because of their mucilaginous nature 
which helps to protect the mucous membranes. 

Constipation. — ^We speak of the bowels as being 
costive when the stool becomes hard and dry. Im- 
paction results from the retention of hard dry 
stools. If a hard mass of fecal matter, a bone, 
peach pit, or other foreign body becomes lodged 
in the intestines we speak of it as an obstruction. 
The term constipation covers all three conditions. 

Cause. — Constipation results from the ingestion 
of large quantities of food, which are hard to digest, 
bones, foreign bodies, lack of exercise, and fevers. 
In old dogs, the digestive organs become weakened 
and the fecal mass is moved on very slowly. 

Potatoes, rice, corn, and bread are hard to digest, 
and being bulky form a large mass which on ac- 
cumulating paralyzes the bowels. Bones are a 
very frequent cause of constipation. When they 

56 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

are broken up by the digestive process, there is 
left a great residue of mineral salts which mix with 
the stool and form a hard dry mass. In many 
cases, the bones are not digested and small pieces 
become imbedded in the stool. The sharp points 
scratch the mucous membrane of the intestines and 
hinder the progress of the stool. This mass very 
frequently becomes impacted in the rectum so hard 
that it is necessary to use forceps to break it up in 
order that it may be removed. Bones of some 
size, such as chop bones, often become fast in the 
intestines and obstruct the passage of fecal matter. 
Other foreign bodies get lodged in the same way. 

Through lack of exercise the muscles of the 
intestines become inactive and weakened like those 
in the body and legs. The fecal matter is not 
propelled along as rapidly as it should be, and a 
large mass accumulates which is hard to pass. 

In fevers the increased body temperature causes 
absorption of the moisture from the stool, which 
becomes too dry to move freely. 

Symptoms. — Observation should be made at each 
evacuation to determine the character of the move- 
ment. In this way alone can the condition of the 
bowels be kept in check and constipation avoided. 
After it has developed, the animal shows indications 
of dullness and depression, loss of appetite, foul 
breath, straining at frequent intervals without re- 
sults, weakness of hind legs, followed by paralysis, 

57 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

loss of control of all body muscles, collapse and con- 
vulsions. 

Treatment. — With the passage of a stool too 
hard and dry, mineral oil, olive oil, or milk of mag- 
nesia should be administered in small repeated doses 
until the condition is relieved. At the same time 
the diet should receive a substantial decrease or be 
changed to overcome the cause. When no move- 
ment has occurred for twenty- four hours, oil should 
be administered, and in event of failure to func- 
tion in the next twenty-four hours, a glycerin 
suppository should be inserted in the rectum or a 
soap enema given. At this time food should be 
withheld until a movement has been secured, but 
water may be allowed freely, unless vomiting occurs. 
In case of no movement for three days or develop- 
ment of fever, the condition has reached such a 
severe stage that a veterinarian should be consulted 
without delay. 

Stomach Worms. — Round worms, varying m 
length from one to three inches and in numbers 
from one to twenty, white or pinkish white in 
color, infest the stomach of a large number of 
puppies. They live on the food intended for the 
animal, and when present in large numbers deprive 
him of a great deal of nourishment. Their presence 
as a foreign body irritates the stomach considerably. 
They thrive best in animals fed on milk, vegetables, 
and a sloppy diet. Although they are of unques- 
tionable harm to the dog, they are not as danger- 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

ous as is generally supposed. The dog that is well 
nourished can harbor worms without any notice- 
able results. However, their tendency to consume 
the dog's nourishment aids in the development of 
such a disease as rickets. In fact, when one condi- 
tion is found the other is present also. There are 
many worm medicines on the market, the use of 
which is always attended with danger. Drugs of 
sufficient strength to dislodge the worms are drastic 
irritants to the stomach. Some dogs are more sus- 
ceptible than others to these medicines, which if 
given in too large doses produce an enteritis that 
is often fatal. Frequently repeated treatments are 
apt to cause the development of a chronic gastro- 
enteritis, which if not fatal, takes months to over- 
come. Treatments, unless wisely administered, are 
of more harm to the animal than the worms. 

The presence of worms can be determined either 
by observing the passage of mature worms or by 
finding the eggs in the stool by microscopic ex- 
amination. Under no consideration should a dog 
be given a treatment unless a diagnosis has been 
made, in one of these ways. 

Tapeworms. — The intestines are frequently in- 
habited by tapeworms. These worms grow from a 
parent head segment with great rapidity until the 
worm reaches the length of three or four feet and 
even longer. There are various types of tape- 
worm. In some the segments are broad and short 
and remain intact, in others the segments are long 

59 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

and narrow. These are passed, separated and alone, 
or in bunches. They possess the power of move- 
ment and when they elongate themselves have the 
appearance of a roundworm. They are frequently 
spoken of as seat worms because they often stick 
to the hair about the rectum. 

The same rules of treatment apply to these worms 
as to the roundworms. 

Infected Anal Glands. — It is generally thought 
that a dog is showing evidence of worms when 
he draws himself along on the floor, sliding on his 
rectum. This symptom, however, is due to an im- 
paction or infection of the anal glands. These 
glands are situated about the anus and secrete an 
oily fluid which lubricates the anus and aids defeca- 
tion. At times this secretion becomes thickened and 
is retained in the gland. As its pressure becomes 
increased necrosis takes place and an abscess is 
formed, resulting in a very irritating and painful 
condition. Because of the pain experienced in de- 
fecation, the stool is retained as long as possible 
and constipation results. 

Treatment. — Hot moist packs applied over the 
anus help to relieve the pain. Following this the 
parts should be massaged with olive oil or vaseline. 
After several applications, gentle massage about the 
anus will break down the obstruction at the opening 
of the gland and the secretion can be pressed out. 
When an abscess forms this must be lanced and 
treated accordingly. 

60 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

Diseases of the Respiratory Organs 

Catarrh of the Nose (Cold in the Head).— This 
condition is brought about by chilling through ex- 
posure in cold rainy weather, after a bath, clipping 
or some other condition, which lowers the resistance 
of the body. It may be caused by the inhaling of 
irritating substances, such as dust, smoke, or fumes. 
It is frequently a symptom of distemper. 

Symptoms. — Sneezing accompanied by a watery 
nasal discharge which may take the form of a gray- 
ish mucus and later a yellow excretion. When ac- 
companied by fever, distemper may be suspected. 

Treatment. — Rhinitis tablets, one every three or 
four hours. Boric acid solution may be dropped 
in the nostrils. 

Laryngitis (Sore Throat). — Inflammation of the 
larynx results from exposure to cold or the inhala- 
tion of irritating substances, and may be accom- 
panied by a catarrh of the nose. It is also caused 
by excessive barking or by pulling at the collar. 
Since the dog begins to cough directly after eat- 
ing, the owner is led to believe that the animal 
has got a bone or some foreign body in his throat. 

Symptoms. — Cough and tenderness of the throat 
are the principal symptoms. In later stages, as the 
mucous secretions of the larynx form, they are 
coughed up. The difficulty in raising this mucus 
or phlegm, as it is usually called, often induces the 
animal to vomit. The cough is persistent and oc- 

6i 



Your Dog" and Your Cat 

curs more frequently at night. It is induced by 
pressure of the throat which is tender. In severe 
cases, the breathing is labored and fever is present. 

Treatment, — The food should be warm, moist- 
ened, and in very small pieces to facilitate easy 
swallowing. If the bowels are costive, oil should 
be given. The cough can be treated with Syrup of 
White Pine, given in teaspoonful doses every three 
or four hours. The disease should not be allowed 
to progress for any length of time. If the home 
treatment fails to give relief, the doctor should be 
summoned. 

Bronchitis. — Bronchitis develops from the same 
causes as laryngitis and is also a symptom of dis- 
temper. 

Symptoms. — High fever and chills, attending de- 
pression and fatigue, loss of appetite, heavy breath- 
ing, hard dry cough, and nasal discharge. 

Pneumonia. — Pneumonia is brought on by sud- 
den chilling or long exposure to cold drafts. It 
may be caused by inhaling oil, should the animal 
choke during its administration. Pneumonia some- 
times occurs as an infectious disease and is often a 
complication of distemper. 

Symptoms. — The symptoms of pneumonia re- 
semble those of bronchitis from which it is hard to 
differentiate. 

Treatment. — Bronchitis and pneumonia both 
should be placed under the care of the doctor. The 
high fever is sufficient evidence of the seriousness 

62 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

of the condition. Nursing is an important factor 
in the successful recovery of these diseases. The 
dog should be kept in a good warm place which 
can be aired frequently without causing a draft to 
strike the animal. The appetite must be coaxed 
since it is important to keep up the animal's strength. 
Tempting dishes should be prepared and frequent 
attempts made to induce the animal to eat. The 
bowels must be kept open and when the dog is very 
weak it is necessary to aid him in cleaning himself. 
Should he become soiled the parts may be sponged 
with hot water, after which he must be thoroughly 
dried. 

Bronchial Asthma. — This disease is seen in old, 
fat dogs. It usually results from a neglected case 
of bronchitis. The breathing becomes short, 
labored, and wheezing. It is more difficult after 
running, barking or excitement. This leads to an 
attack of coughing which ends with choking and 
even vomiting. When the mucus in the throat has 
been raised and spit out, the attack passes off. The 
heart is weakened and bowels are usually costive. 

Treatment. — The constipation should be relieved 
by the regular use of small doses of mineral oil. 
The dog's diet should be restricted to very small 
portions of meat in an attempt to overcome the 
obesity. Excitement should be avoided as much as 
possible. The heart should be stimulated and anti- 
spasmodics given under the direction of the veteri- 
narian. 

63 



Your Dog and Your Cat 



Infectious Diseases 

Distemper. — This is the most dreaded of all dis- 
eases affecting dogs. It is an influenza-like ailment 
of unknown cause. It is highly contagious and 
occurs in dogs of all ages, but is more frequent in 
young animals. Distemper is easily disseminated 
and actual contact with sick animals is not necessary 
for infection. The virus is spread freely wherever 
dogs are collected in large numbers. Dog shows 
and kennels are very common mediums for spread- 
ing the disease. However, the infection can be 
gathered in the street or carried on the clothing. 
Unsanitary quarters are favorite breeding grounds 
for infection, and the vitality of dogs kept under 
such conditions is so lowered that they become easy 
victims to the disease. Distemper occurs more often 
in young animals, because their powers of resistance 
are not sufficient to combat the infection. Puppies 
hampered by improper feeding, worms, or rickets 
possess much less vitality than healthy ones. 

Symptoms. — Discharge from the eyes and nose, 
sneezing, coughing, high fever, loss of appetite, and 
diarrhea are the general symptoms. The dog may 
have a heavy bronchitis or a pneumonia. The dis- 
ease may be confined to the digestive tract. Pus 
blisters are often found on the belly and groin. 
Involvement of the nervous system is often evi- 
denced by twitching of a group of muscles or by 

64 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

convulsions. In the later stages chorea may de- 
velop, although this disease usually occurs some 
time after the other symptoms have disappeared, 
and the distemper has been announced cured. Dis- 
temper may occur in the form of a diarrhea v^hich 
lasts from two to four days. This is usually fol- 
lowed in about four weeks with chorea. In some 
cases no other symptom than convulsions is present. 
The cases which exhibit a bronchitis with a heavy 
nasal discharge are not as fatal as those which in- 
volve the intestines. The death rate is very high. 

Prevention. — Every possible precaution should 
be exercised in preventing distemper. When the 
dog is out for his walk he should be kept away 
from suspicious looking animals, especially the 
street variety. Great care should be taken that he 
does not contract a cold on rainy days, or after his 
bath. If the dog is not as vigorous as he should be, 
find out the reason and try to overcome it. Should 
the owner desire to enter his dog in a show, it is 
advisable to have him vaccinated before doing so. 
The immunity thus conferred will last but a few 
weeks and should be done about a week before 
showing. 

Treatment. — There is no known cure for dis- 
temper. Serums in the hands of those familiar with 
their action often prove helpful if used early in the 
disease. The dog should immediately be put under 
the doctor's care. Delays are dangerous, and with 

65 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

distemper, twenty-four hours on the start means a 
great deal in the final outcome. 

Chorea. — Chorea is a nervous disease which de- 
velops as a sequel of distemper. It may appear dur- 
ing the later course of the disease, but is not usually 
seen sooner than two weeks after recovery, and may 
not develop for two months afterward. The dis- 
ease is thought to be due to a degeneration of the 
nerve tissue just outside of the spinal cord, caused 
by toxins generated by the distemper virus. It is 
characterized by regular spasms of certain muscles 
or groups of muscles. Usually one leg, the jaw, 
or the muscles over the head are affected. Some- 
times all of the legs may be involved. The condi- 
tion always starts in one group of muscles and if 
the progress is slow, further development may be 
checked. The dog may live a very normal life 
thereafter in spite of this handicap. When the dis- 
ease develops rapidly, other parts of the body soon 
become affected. The convulsive twitching of a 
large part of the body muscles consumes a great 
amount of energy and the dog soon becomes ex- 
hausted. In these cases treatment is without results 
and the animal must be destroyed or it will die a 
hard and lingering death. 

Treatment. — Many and various drugs have been 
used in the treatment of chorea. Each veterinarian 
will have a different line of treatment based on the 
results of his experience. 



66 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

Diseases of the Urinary Tract 

Urinary disorders are not common in dogs and 
their diagnosis and treatment are difficult. It is 
important, however, that the dog has daily passages 
of his urine and it is the owner's duty at all times to 
keep this in mind. Retention of the urine is very 
dangerous, for it quickly leads to uremic poison- 
ing, which is fatal. If no water is passed for more 
than twenty-four hours the matter should be given 
immediate attention. The chief causes of retention 
are paralysis of the bladder and the presence of 
calculi, or stones in the urethra. Paralysis of the 
bladder may be caused by direct injuries to the 
region or to the spine. It comes secondary to con- 
stipation and very often in pregnant bitches during 
whelping. Stones or calculi are formed in the blad- 
der and carried down into the urethra where they 
become impacted, obstructing the passage of urine. 
Retention of urine may be recognized by frequent 
attempts at urination without results, or by the 
passage of but a few drops. 

Urine discolored by blood is symptomatic of an 
inflammation of the bladder, caused generally by 
calculi. When the inflammation is intense or the 
kidneys are involved, the urine becomes cloudy and, 
sometimes, coffee-colored. These conditions are 
both dangerous and need prompt attention. 



67 



Your Dog and Your Cat 



General Diseases 

Rickets. — Rickets is a very important and ex- 
tremely common disease affecting puppies. It is 
generally considered as a disease of the bones, but 
as a matter of fact, the nutrition of the whole body 
is affected. When the puppy is born, the bones are 
soft, and as he grows, they should normally become 
hardened by the lime salts which are deposited in 
them. In rickets this process does not take place 
as rapidly as it should, if at all. The muscles are 
weak and flabby, but may be padded with fat. 
Digestion does not properly function and the gen- 
eral condition of the animal is affected. 

The cause of rickets may be either a lack of 
salts in the food or an excessive excretion of them. 
The disease may be inherited from its parents, or 
it may be a result of poor breeding, or of inbreed- 
ing. As yet the real cause has not been determined, 
but in nearly all cases the food has consisted mainly 
of milk, bread, vegetables, and soup. Since dogs 
affected with rickets almost invariably harbor 
worms there may be some connection between the 
two conditions. Collies, Shepherd Dogs, Airedales, 
English Bulldogs, and Pekingese are the breeds most 
commonly affected. 

Symptoms. — The disease does not become notice- 
able until the pup is at least four weeks old, when 
it may be observed that he is not able to support 
his body on his legs. As a rule he is very fat and 

68 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

this is supposed to be the cause of the trouble. The 
dog is more frequently from two to three months 
old before the symptoms of the disease appear. In 
these cases the dog becomes unthrifty, less lively, 
disinclined to moving about, which he does with 
difficulty. There is great distention of the abdomen 
and the first evidence of trouble may be an attack 
of indigestion. The hair is dull and staring, the 
skin dry and scaly, and eczema may be present, or 
developing. The prominent signs of the disease are 
in the bones. The legs are crooked and the joints 
enlarged. The spine may be curved and the ribs 
so soft that the chest may be flattened similar to 
the human chest. In severe cases the dog shows 
marked evidence of pain when trying to move about 
or when being handled. As the disease progresses, 
the attacks of indigestion are increased in frequency, 
an intoxication of the system develops, and the dog 
is finally thrown into convulsions. 

Prevention. — Rickets can be overcome to a great 
extent if the puppies are fed good nutritious food 
from the time they are weaned. The young puppies 
must receive a liberal quantity of meat as early as 
possible. Starchy foods and milk must be to a 
great extent eliminated. If worms are present they 
should be treated. The bitch when carrying her 
litter should be given plenty of solid food. Lime 
in the form of bone meal may be given. An abun- 
dance of exercise and fresh air should be allowed the 

69 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

bitch while pregnant and the puppies as soon as 
they are able to be out. 

Treatment. — If a case of rickets is recognized 
early enough in its course the progress can be 
checked and the condition overcome by rectifying 
the diet. The food should not only contain plenty 
of protein but should also have a considerable 
quantity of fat. Beef fat, butter, cream, eggs, 
olive oil, or cod-liver oil will supply this, but they 
must be used with discretion or the puppy's stomach 
which is already weakened will become upset. Lime 
salts may be artificially supplied by giving lime 
water in teaspoonful doses in the drinking water or 
by putting small quantities of bone meal in the food. 

It should be determined early whether or not 
the puppy is harboring worms. In case they are 
present he should be treated for them providing he 
is strong enough to withstand the ordeal. When 
the disease has progressed to such a stage that the 
dog's movements are hampered the possibilities of 
a successful treatment are slight. 

Diseases of the Skin 

Eczema. — Eczema is a disease of the skin caused 
by a general systemic disturbance assisted by ex- 
ternal irritation. It occurs in dogs of all ages but 
is more prevalent in puppies under six months and 
in dogs over six years of age. It most frequently 
affects old, fat dogs which receive but little exercise. 

70 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

Causes. — The general disturbance which leads to 
eczema has been popularly termed "overheating of 
the blood." Certain substances, probably of the 
nature of toxins, arising from the digestive tract, 
circulate in the blood stream. These poisonous 
products irritate the skin, but it is not usually dis- 
turbed unless aggravated from the outside. If, 
however, they are produced in sufficient quantities, 
eczema may develop without the external irrita- 
tion. The digestive disorder, which leads to this, 
may be caused by an irrational diet, an excess of 
food, and constipation, or it may coexist with 
worms, rickets, and distemper. The foods which 
are conducive to eczema are fats, milk, soups, 
gravies, and boiled liver. Raw meat absolutely does 
not cause this condition when fed in reasonable 
amounts, but eczema may develop when any of the 
proper foods are given in unlimited quantities. 
Constipation promotes any form of intoxication. 
Rickets and worms when brought to notice are 
usually associated with an error in diet. During 
such severe debilitating diseases as distemper the 
resistance of the body is too low to combat either 
external or internal irritation of the skin. 

The external irritation may be produced by dirt, 
fleas, lice, matted hair, frequent bathing, strong 
soaps and disinfectants. However, unless the sys- 
temic condition above described exists, the skin 
will not be affected by the irritation. A dog in 
normal health may harbor fleas or lice without 

71 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

any apparent harm. He may bite and scratch at 
his skin to rid himself of them, causing only super- 
ficial wounds which readily heal. 

Symptoms. — Eczema may develop at any time 
during the year, but is much more prevalent during 
the late summer, that is from the first of July until 
the last of October. The disease usually starts 
with scratching and biting at the skin. The small 
areas first affected spread into large patches and 
may even extend over the whole body surface. The 
favorite location of the primary lesions are the 
neck, back of the ears, the chest at the armpits, 
the belly, and the back just ahead of the tail. As 
the scratching continues the skin becomes red, abra- 
sions are caused by the nails or teeth and the hair 
falls out over the patches. In some cases a moist 
viscid discharge exudes from the surface, while in 
others scales and scabs are found. Small pimples 
may appear in the affected areas or scattered over 
the entire body. As the disease progresses, the 
skin becomes thickened and thrown into folds. A 
distinct odor always escapes from a dog suffering 
from eczema. In the earlier stages the affected 
parts are very tender and painful to touch. 

Prevention. — Careful feeding on small quantities 
of concentrated foods, together with plenty of out- 
door exercise will prevent most cases of eczema. 
After the dog has once suffered from It, care 
should be taken afterwards, especially during the 
summer, to prevent its reoccurrence. Constipation 

72 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

and any other systemic condition should be quickly 
corrected. 

Treatment. — The first and most important part 
of the treatment consists in putting the animal on 
a diet. The amount of food given should be re- 
duced to one-half or even one-quarter of the usual 
quantity. Raw beef is the best food to use in this 
condition, but it may also be boiled or roasted. In 
addition a small piece of dog cracker or dry hard 
bread may be given. For those who will not eat 
the crackers this diet is far more effectual, and in 
due course of time when the system needs more 
nourishment, the animal will partake of the hated 
cracker. This will serve as an indication that more 
food is needed, and if the animal has commenced 
to get thin it may be given. 

Sulphur is used both internally and externally for 
eczema. The old habit of putting a lump of sulphur 
in the drinking water is of no value, but if it is 
given in the food, benefit may be derived from its 
use. Tablets make the most convenient form for 
administration, and those containing five grains can 
be given in doses of one or two, twice a day. For 
external applications, powdered sulphur can be 
mixed with lard or cottonseed oil in the proportions 
of one to eight. If no results are secured in a 
short time the doctor should be consulted, because 
once the condition becomes chronic and of long 
standing, it is very hard to overcome. 

Mange. — Mange is a very severe disease of the 

73 



Your Dog and Your Cat . 

skin caused by a parasite which is so small that it 
can be seen only with the aid of the microscope. 
There are two distinct kinds of mange caused by 
separate parasites, each of which has a different 
method of attacking the skin. One burrows 
through the superficial layers, while the other fol- 
lows the hairs down to their roots. The latter is 
naturally the more severe. Mange affects dogs of 
all ages, and all breeds. It is contagious and may 
be spread from one dog to another, not only by 
actual contact, but through the medium of anything 
used by the diseased animal. Thus the infection 
may be harbored in the collar, leader, blanket, 
combs, brushes, bed, and even in the cage, room, 
or yard where the diseased dog has been kept. 

Symptoms. — The lesions so closely resemble 
eczema that except in severe cases it is almost im- 
possible to distinguish between them without the 
use of the microscope. In severe forms of mange 
pustules appear which as they break, discharge pus 
that is filled with living parasites. Where pustules 
form in large numbers in one area, the skin may 
become pitted with holes. From this great quanti- 
ties of bloody pus are discharged. Although the dis- 
ease is a local affection, the general health of the 
animal may become affected when the condition is 
severe. 

Treatment. — Very vigorous methods are neces- 
sary to combat mange. If the dog is of the long- 
haired variety, the coat must be entirely removed. 

74 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

Lotions that are used must be thoroughly applied 
at regular intervals, to all parts of the body, other- 
wise the parasite may thrive on the untreated area. 
Strong active remedies must be used to destroy the 
organism, but they must not be too irritating to 
the skin, or it will be left in a deplorable condition. 
The lotions must not be applied too liberally. 

Fleas and Lice. — The flea is the most annoying 
pest with which the dog is troubled. It is most 
prevalent during the late summer and autumn. 
Fleas breed in dark dirty places such as in carpets, 
cracks, corners, heaps of waste, etc. They lay eggs 
from which young are subsequently hatched. Fleas 
are found on all parts of the body, but more numer- 
ously where the hair is dense. On badly infected 
dogs, great nests of fleas are found, containing large 
quantities of black excretion in which are the eggs. 

Coarse dogs are not so badly affected by fleas as 
are the finer breeds. If the dog is healthy no 
trouble may arise from them, except the annoyance 
of the continual scratching. However, when the 
skin is sensitive, eczema may result. The skin be- 
comes reddened by the scratching, and wounds are 
inflicted by the nails and teeth. The lesions may 
spread out till the whole body is involved. 

Treatment. — To kill fleas is a comparatively easy 
task, but to keep the dog free of them is a different 
proposition. The most simple remedy is Persian In- 
sect Powder, which may be sifted into the hair at 
intervals of from four days to a week. The powder 

75 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

is applied freely, working it through the hair to 
the skin. After an interval of half an hour the 
dog should be thoroughly brushed and combed to 
remove the stupefied fleas and the excess powder. 
This should be done over a sheet or newspaper in 
order to collect the fleas as they drop off so that 
they may be destroyed by burning the paper or boil- 
ing the sheet. 

C/N, Pearson's Creolin or Lysol may be used in 
the bath water, or a tablespoonful of the disinfec- 
tant may be added to a quart of water and the solu- 
tion used to saturate the hair just prior to the bath. 
An emulsion made by adding a tablespoonful of 
kerosene to a pint of milk or thick soapy water 
may be used in a like manner. Treatments will 
have to be repeated often to be successful. 

Lice are not as common as fleas, but are much 
harder to combat. It is wise to clip the dog com- 
pletely before beginning the treatment. The kero- 
sene emulsions can be used to the best advantage. 
The proportion of kerosene should be increased at 
subsequent applications, providing the skin does not 
become sore from its use. 



Injuries 

Wounds. — Superficial skin wounds are usually 
treated with daily applications of tincture of iodine. 
When they are very dirty and badly infected they 
must first be washed with a warm antiseptic solution 

76 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

such as boric acid. If the wound is extensive it is 
often advisable to put in a few stitches. Deep 
ragged wounds must be thoroughly washed and 
then covered with swabs saturated with boric acid 
or some suitable antiseptic. Penetrating wounds 
caused by bites or nail puncture are the most dan- 
gerous. The skin opening being small, closes 
quickly, and the infection which has been carried 
into the deeper tissues causes an inflammation. 
Since the discharges cannot go to the surface they 
are forced out through the softer tissues, and blood 
poisoning results. Bite wounds require careful at- 
tention because of the danger of rabies. 

Bruises. — The skin and muscles are bruised by 
blows, kicks and the like. The affected parts be- 
come, red, hot, swollen, and painful, owing to the 
inflammatory processes. During the first twenty- 
four hours after the wound has been inflicted, swabs 
soaked in cold water can be applied. Afterward hot 
applications are used, which may be followed by 
liniments and massage. 

Abscesses. — Abscesses result from the destruc- 
tion of tissues by blows and similar injuries and 
from puncture wounds. The inflammation instead of 
spreading remains confined to a small area, and pus 
develops. This gives rise to a hot, painful swelling 
which is more or less circumscribed. When this is 
'*ripe" it must be opened, the pus drawn out, and 
the wound treated with antiseptics. Hot moist 

77 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

packs or poultices will hasten the development of 
the abscess. 

Dislocations. — In the dog the shoulder and elbow 
joints of the front leg and the stifle and hip joints 
of the hind leg are most subject to dislocation. This 
is brought about by a fall, jumping, slipping, or 
from a blow. Unless the dislocation is reduced 
within a comparatively short time, the tissues be- 
come so swollen and the ligaments so tense that it 
is practically impossible to reset the leg without 
causing injury to the tissues. To prevent swell- 
ing before the doctor arrives, the parts should 
be covered with swabs on which cold water is fre- 
quently poured. 

Fractures. — Although fractures may occur in any 
bone in the body, they are most frequently seen in 
the leg. Broken bones result from falls, blows, and 
automobile accidents. Strange as it may seem, they 
result more frequently from short falls, such as 
from a chair, than from a second or third story 
window. The bones of the pelvis are frequently 
crushed when the dog is run down by an automobile. 
With such an accident there is always danger of 
a rupture of a blood vessel with an internal hem- 
orrhage. Fractures are recognized by the great 
pain resulting from movement of the parts, limp- 
ness, and inability to stand. Sometimes a noise can 
be heard or felt, due to the scraping of the broken 
ends of the bone. A temporary bandage is first 
loosely applied to remain until the swelling sub- 

78 



Common Diseases of Dogs 

sides. This may be soaked with cold water to dis- 
courage sweUing. After forty-eight to seventy-two 
hours a permanent cast should be applied by a com- 
petent hand. Bandages that are applied too tightly, 
with too little cotton padding, or not covering the 
whole of the leg beyond the break in the direction 
of the toe, will cause necrosis or sloughing of the 
tissue on account of a stoppage of the circulation of 
blood to the parts. Bandages put on by inexperi- 
enced persons should be changed at least every third 
day. During the process of healing the dog should 
be kept as quiet as possible to avoid any movement 
or displacement of the broken bones. 



CHAPTER IV 

CARE AND DISEASES OF BREEDING ANIMALS 
Breeding 

Advisability. — The house pet should under no cir- 
cumstances be bred because of the great risks in- 
volved. The bearing of young is a normal function 
v^hich should not be attended with danger pro- 
vided the dog is kept under natural conditions 
and allowed to choose its own mate. The house 
dog, however, lives a very abnormal life and is 
forced to mate with the dog which meets the ap- 
proval of her master. Since pet dogs are usually 
products of systematic breeding aimed at the de- 
velopment of an ideal type, their powers of repro- 
duction, as in all other high bred animals, are 
greatly reduced. This weakness is due mainly to 
lack of freedom, overfeeding, and close breeding. 
The difificulties commonly encountered are, inability 
to deliver their puppies, death of the puppies prior 
to the time of delivery, inflammation of the womb, 
and eclampsia. Each of these conditions causes a 
great deal of suffering and is frequently fatal. 

Professional breeders expect a certain amount of 
trouble with their bitches and since they are kept 
only as a business proposition the loss is entirely 
monetary. This, on the other hand, is not the case 

80 



Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals 

with the pet. She occupies a prominent position 
in the family and receives the love and devotion 
of all of its members. Her loss cannot be measured 
by money, for the grief of all those v^ho love her 
is beyond money value. He who sponsored the 
breeding is responsible for her untimely death. 

The dog, no matter whether it be male or female, 
is much less desirable as a house dog after breed- 
ing. The bitch loses her graceful form and be- 
comes more excitable during her period of season. 
The dog develops a great desire to mingle with 
other dogs, especially those of the opposite sex. He 
may become restless and will even run away from 
his home, if the opportunity is afforded, in order 
to gratify his desire. When unable to do this he 
often becomes obnoxious about the house. 

Necessity. — Under normal conditions the bearing 
of young should improve the health of the matron. 
The advantages, however, do not outweigh the 
dangers, hence the performance is not to be advised 
even though It may seemingly be recommended. 
Breeding is by no means necessary to the mainte- 
nance of health, for it is possible for dogs of either 
sex to pass through a very vigorous existence with- 
out having a single intercourse. 

Reproductive Functions 

Estrum. — The period of estrum or season, as it 
is generally called, first occurs in the bitch when 

8i 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

she is about one year old, but it may appear at 
any time from the ninth to the eighteenth month. 
It should recur, thereafter, at intervals of six 
months. An irregularity of the interval between 
seasons sometimes occurs, but the period is always 
constant for the individual concerned. Some dogs 
come in season but once a year, others are sick at 
regular intervals of four months, and others at 
three. 

Estrum is first recognized by a swelling of the 
vagina or external genital. In a few days a mucous 
discharge appears, the amount of which depends 
on the sexual vigor of the animal. This period 
lasts from seven to ten days. The dog is very 
playful and desires the company of other dogs, 
especially of the opposite sex, but she will not per- 
mit intercourse. During the second stage of sea- 
son the discharge becomes bloody and more copious. 
This period lasts about seven days, during which 
time mating may take place successfully. When the 
bleeding stops, the swelling of the vagina disap- 
pears. The entire period of season covers from six- 
teen to twenty days. 

Care of the Dog During Estrum. — When breed- 
ing is not desired the bitch should be kept away 
from all other animals since their presence causes 
undue excitement. Being naturally prolific breeders 
they usually try to seek a mate. When a male and 
female are kept in the home together they should 
be separated at this time and every precaution taken 

82 



Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals 

to avoid their getting together. Oftentimes through 
carelessness doors are left open and instantly the 
animals seek each other. During her period of sea- 
son the bitch should be fed more lightly than usual 
and the bowels should receive added attention. 
Under no circumstances should she be bathed while 
in this condition. 

Mating. — When breeding is contemplated, the 
male should be selected with great care. This is 
particularly important in the small toys and in Bos- 
ton Terriers. Consideration should be given, not 
only to the individual but also to his ancestors. 
The size is of greatest importance. A small dog 
may be the offspring of much larger parents, in 
which case his get would in all probability be of the 
larger type. The next consideration is the weak 
points of the bitch, for if possible a male should be 
selected whose characteristics are strong where hers 
are weak. The correct time for mating is usually 
considered as the tenth day of season ; some breeders 
prefer to have two services, one on the tenth and the 
other on the thirteenth day. This, however, should 
be decided by the owner of the sire. The mating 
should be superintended by some one who has had 
experience in the procedure. If the bitch is afraid 
of the dog or acts the least bit combative, the inter- 
course should not be forced, for the unwillingness 
of the bitch usually is significant of an unsuitable 
union. The date of each service should be recorded 
and the day of expected parturition determined. 

83 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

This is very important, because should difficulty 
arise it is hard to decide just what course to take 
unless the time of confinement is definitely known. 
For instance, if the dog refused food and the pass- 
age was found open there would be no cause for 
alarm if it occurred on the sixty-second day, but 
if it was the sixty-sixth day, the puppies would 
have to be delivered immediately by one means or 
another. 

False Conception. — This is a peculiar phenome- 
non of nature. At about six weeks after the period 
of season the breasts enlarge and milk is formed. 
This occurs in bitches that have not been mated 
more frequently than in those that have. The pres- 
sure of the milk causes great pain. The temperature 
goes up, the animal loses appetite and the bowels 
become costive. Treatment consists in applying hot 
towels to the breasts, after which camphorated oil 
Is carefully massaged over them. A dose of castor 
oil is administered and food and water are given 
sparingly for a few days. Abscesses of the breast 
occasionally result from this condition. 

Pregnancy.— During the period that the bitch 
carries her young the bowels should be kept free. 
She should have a liberal diet of good nourishing 
food unless she is very fat. The food should, how- 
ever, not be too bulky or sloppy. As much exer- 
cise as possible should be given, especially If she Is 
obese. Great care should be taken to prevent acci- 
dents. The dog must be kept clean, but not bathed 

84 



Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals 

more than is actually necessary. Toward the last 
she should not be given a tub bath, but can be 
cleaned by sponging and brushing. 

Signs of Pregnancy. — The pregnant bitch is very 
deceiving. Frequently she will go until within two 
or three days of her time without showing the least 
enlargement of the abdomen or filling of the breasts. 
However, there should be a steady increase in the 
distention of the abdomen from the fourth or fifth 
week on. The breasts should enlarge and milk 
appear by the seventh or eighth week. The appetite 
should be increased, the disposition become more 
gentle and loving, and toward the last movement 
of the puppies should be felt. 

False Pregnancy. — Occasionally bitches which 
have been served will show marked distention of 
the abdomen and filling of the breasts up to the 
sixth week. The owner will by this time be specu- 
lating on what he Is going to do with the enormous 
litter of puppies, when suddenly the abdomen col- 
lapses and the puppies become a dream. Sometimes 
a bitch will show no sign of having conceived until 
the day on which she should whelp, when she begins 
to make her nest by tearing up her bed, then lying 
down and beginning to labor. She may keep this 
up for an hour or so when she suddenly forgets 
or the desire disappears. 

Parturition or Delivery. — Delivery of the puppies 
should occur on the sixty-third day after mating. 
The time, however, may normally vary from fifty- 

85 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

eight to sixty-six days in individual bitches, but the 
period is usually constant in succeeding pregnancies. 
The first sign of the approach of whelping is a swell- 
ing of the vagina, which may appear from twenty- 
four to forty-eight hours before the actual delivery. 
Ordinarily the dog will go through the act of mak- 
ing a nest by tearing up her bedding, a paper, or 
whatever else she may find that is suitable. Her 
ordinary sleeping place is a convenient spot for fier 
to have her puppies providing she has sufiicient pads 
or cloths for her bed. Soon after the nest is made 
the labor pains commence. These somewhat re- 
semble the straining that would occur if the dog 
were attempting to pass a very constipated stool. 
To deliver the puppies she usually lies on her chest 
with her body slightly curved in the usual manner, 
but when the pains become violent she may lie flat 
on her side. She frequently gets up, walks around, 
and lies down in a fresh place. 

As the vagina enlarges the water sack appears. 
Labor pains keep forcing this backwards and as it 
reaches the outer edge of the vagina it bursts and 
the puppy may be seen presented just back of it. 
The most common presentation is head first and 
back upwards, although the puppy may come hind 
feet first. The latter position, however, is more 
difiicult to deliver and unless accomplished quickly 
the puppy may smother. When the puppy is up- 
side down or the head is turned to one side, delivery 
is difficult and in most cases is not possible without 

86 



Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals 

aid. The actual process of delivery takes place very 
quickly and is accomplished by one or two vigorous 
contractions of the uterus. The afterbirth usually 
comes out with the puppy, and the mother, after 
severing the cord, eats the sack. She then proceeds 
to clean the puppy by licking and rolling it around 
on the bedding. After it is dry she cuddles down 
with it up near a breast. If the puppy is healthy 
he will immediately begin to look for the nipple. 
Only a short interval should elapse between suc- 
ceeding births and a litter of four or five should 
be born in from one to five hours. 

Difficult Parturition. — ^When there is a deform- 
ity of the pelvic cavity of the bitch or the puppies 
are too large to pass through it, trouble ensues. 
Labor becomes more difficult if the puppies are dry, 
dead or decayed. If the uterus is infected the labor 
pains are much weaker. Should an interval of two 
hours pass after the beginning of labor without re- 
sults, it may be assumed that the bitch is in trouble. 
In such cases help should be summoned immediately. 
If the bitch is able to force the puppies but part way 
out an attendant may remove it, providing he does 
not have to exert great force. Occasionally one 
puppy is delivered without trouble, but the bitch 
does not seem able to bring forth the second. This 
may be due to a dryness of the canal or if the 
puppy has been dead for some time and the sack 
broken the hair may be dry and sticky. To over- 
come this, olive oil may be carried into the vagina 

87 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

using the forefinger to smear the oil around the 
cavity and over the pup. If this does not produce 
results in a short time the bitch will require surgical 
aid. Under no circumstances should the bitch be 
allowed more than twelve hours for delivering her 
puppies. It is much safer to summon the doctor at 
the end of six hours. 

In case the bitch does not show signs of whelping 
on the sixty-third day, there is no cause for worry 
providing she is eating regularly, shows no distress 
and has no discharge from the vagina. As the 
sixty-sixth day passes, if there is still no disturb- 
ance in her condition and no evidence of an opening 
of the womb, it can safely be decided that the bitch 
is not in whelp. On the other hand, if the appetite 
fails, the bitch becomes restless, languid and fever- 
ish, any time after the fifty-eighth day she, in all 
probability, has an infection of the uterus or is 
carrying dead puppies which she will not be able to 
deliver without assistance. When the bitch is 
neglected until the womb becomes inflamed, hope 
of recovery is scant. But if she is taken care of 
early, before she becomes exhausted or infected, 
she may safely go through even a Caesarian section 
operation, should this prove necessary. Under no 
circumstances should the vagina or uterus be ex- 
plored or instruments used by anyone not familiar 
with the organs. 



88 



Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals 

Care 

Care after Whelping.— If the bitch has eaten the 
afterbirth of her puppies she should be given a 
dose of castor oil a short time after the last de- 
livery. She will require no food for several hours 
but should be allowed to remain quietly with her 
puppies. After she is rested, warm egg and milk, 
gruel or broth may be offered her. Later if she 
feels inclined she may have some meat and on the 
second day can be given her regular diet. If her 
milk seems scant she may be given oatmeal, gruels 
and milk regularly, but care must be taken that an 
upset of the digestion does not occur. When there 
is not enough milk for the puppies a foster mother 
should be obtained, otherwise it will be necessary 
to bring them up on a bottle, a very difficult under- 
taking. Occasionally when the bitch has had a 
particularly hard time whelping, she will refuse to 
own her young. They must be kept warm and fed 
either from a bottle or by holding the bitch so 
that they can nurse her. In a few days, as soon as 
her condition improves, she will most likely take to 
them again. 

Following parturition there is generally a slight 
discharge from the uterus which lasts for several 
days. This, however, must not be confused with 
the discharge which accompanies inflammation of 
the womb. This condition usually becomes evident 
on the second or third day after whelping. The 

89 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

discharge is copious, brownish in color and viscid 
in character, and very fetid. The dog carries a 
high fever, refuses food and shows extreme exhaus- 
tion. Since douching under such conditions might 
cause a rupture of the uterus it should be done 
only on the advice of a veterinarian. 

Care of the Breasts. — After a normal whelping 
of at least four puppies the breasts should need no 
attention. When only one or two of the puppies 
are saved the bitch may have a superabundant quan- 
tity of milk. When this occurs the breast becomes 
swollen, hard and painful and the bitch may de- 
velop a fever and refuse food. Sufficient milk 
should be removed to relieve the tension. This may 
be done by carefully grasping the nipple between the 
thumb and forefinger far up on the breast and 
massaging downwards toward the opening. When 
the breasts are very painful hot towels may be 
applied, followed by an application of camphorated 
oil. 

Eclampsia. — Eclampsia is a nervous disease 
affecting suckling bitches. It occurs usually during 
the third week after birth of the puppies but may 
occur before or later than that time. It is more 
frequent in bitches feeding large litters that are 
very fat. It appears suddenly and lasts from 
twenty-four to forty-eight hours. Given proper 
care the dog will almost invariably recover, but 
when neglected the disease is fatal. 

Symptoms. — The condition appears as an intoxi- 
90 



Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals 

cation or systemic poisoning. The dog suddenly 
"becomes restless and breathes rapidly. In from fifteen 
minutes to an hour the animal loses control of her 
legs and is unable to move. The legs and head are 
extended and rigid except for a violent twitching 
of the muscles. The breathing becomes very diffi- 
cult and can be heard at some distance. 

Treatment. — The dog should be rushed to the 
doctor with all possible haste. In case this is im- 
possible she may be given lo to 15 grains of 
sodium bromide in tablet form. This may help 
the condition but is rarely sufficient to counteract 
the violent convulsions. Enemas may be given and 
hot towels wrapped about the body. Liquids of 
any nature absolutely must not be given by the 
mouth since the dog is unable to swallow and they 
would be carried down into the lungs. 



CHAPTER V 

FOODS AND FEEDING 
Food Requirements 

Although feeding the dog is a very simple prob- 
lem, a great deal of his sickness may be traced 
either directly or indirectly to his food. These 
dietetic disorders are usually due to the elimination 
of meat in favor of the vegetable foods. Mainly 
responsible for this is the prevalent notion that meat 
is harmful to the dog. This assumption is, how- 
ever, not based on facts, but, as v^rill be shown, is 
directly contrary to them. Those who accept this 
idea think that meat will make the dog wild and 
vicious or drive him mad. When meat is used ex- 
tensively the condition of the dog is exceptionally 
good and he is very active and playful. Sometimes 
in his play he gets rather rough and may even un- 
meaningly bite. This is the nearest to being mad 
or vicious that the dog approaches from eating 
meat. So far as rabies, hydrophobia, or mad dog is 
concerned, this is a specific disease caused by the 
bite of a dog already affected. It is also believed 
that worms are caused by meat. Under certain con- 
ditions this is barely possible, but the same chance 
exists for man and still we do not refrain from 
eating it. One of the many tapeworms affecting 

92 



Foods and Feeding 



the dog occurs in its cystic stage in the muscles of 
beef, but under the universal meat inspection which 
we now enjoy the dangers from this are nil, since 
it is one of the conditions for which the meat is 
examined. Meat is frequently accused of being 
the cause of eczema, but under the discussion of 
the disease it has been shown that it is due instead 
to starchy foods. 

That meat is the natural diet of the dog can 
readily be proven by a study of his natural char- 
acteristics, the comparative anatomy of his digestive 
tract, and the difference in the composition of foods. 
All animals are divided into three classes: (i) 
Herbivora, such as the horse, cow, sheep, camel, 
and elephant, feed entirely on vegetable foods; (2) 
Omnivora, including man and the hog, eat both ani- 
mal and vegetable foods; (3) Carnivora, to which 
class belongs the dog, cat, lion, and tiger, are sup- 
posed to live exclusively on flesh. Examining the 
digestive tracts of these groups, we find that the 
horse and cow are supplied with a very long and 
voluminous intestine making accommodation for 
large quantities of food material. On the other 
hand, the dog has a comparatively short and small 
intestine, affording room for only limited amounts. 
From this it is easy to determine that the food of 
the dog must be supplied in concentrated form. 
Analyses of foods show that meats contain a high 
percentage of protein which is essential to body 
activity, a considerable quantity of fat, but no car- 

93 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

bohydrates or starches. Vegetable foods contain 
a large amount of water, fiber and starches, with 
only a small quantity of protein. Thus, to acquire 
the amount of protein necessary, the dog must con- 
sume a large volume of vegetable foods, while the 
same nourishment could be obtained from a small 
quantity of meat. Furthermore, the knowledge 
gained from the feeding of dogs, both experi- 
mentally and in the treatment of disease, has shown 
that the more concentrated the food the easier it is 
digested. 

Foods 

Meats — Beef. — Of all meats beef is most exten- 
sively used since it is served more frequently in 
the ordinary household. It may be given raw and 
in this form is most easily digested and of greater 
food value, because none of its nutritiveness is lost 
in the preparation. The meat should be ground 
preferably at home, for that which the butcher 
prepares contains too much fat and gristle. Raw 
beef should not be made the exclusive diet, except 
in certain conditions, for, although it supplies all 
of the energy needed by the body, it lacks the fats 
and sugars necessary to keep the animal robust. For 
this reason, it may be given alone and in small 
quantities to reduce fat animals. The raw meat is 
so thoroughly digested that but little waste material 
is left, and thus the stool is scanty. This lack of 
bulk sometimes induces constipation. Occasionally 

94 



Foods and Feeding 



in young dogs, not used to meats, diarrhea may re- 
sult from intensive feeding of raw beef alone. 

For general use boiled beef is better than raw. 
It may be fed in larger quantities without affecting 
the bowels. It may be prepared by boiling either 
slowly for hours until tender or quickly until the 
color changes. By the latter method less of tfie 
substance is lost. After cooking it should be 
shredded or ground. Portions from the ordinary 
stew may be economically used. When roast beef 
or broiled steak are served on the family table the 
less desirable parts and the trimmings may be 
ground up for the dog. Any cut of beef may be 
used providing it is lean and free from gristle. 
When buying exclusively for the dog the round is 
the most economical. 

Horse Meat. — For feeding large numbers of dogs 
this meat can often be purchased at a much lower 
price than beef. It has been found to be equally 
as good. No different effects are noticed from its 
use except that it is apt slightly to loosen the bowels. 
It is safer to boil the horse meat since it is rarely 
inspected. 

Veal. — Veal possesses no advantage over beef, 
but when it is used by the family it can be given 
with advantage to the dog with the result of mak- 
ing a greater variety in the diet. It can be given 
raw but is better when stewed or boiled. 

Lamb. — Stewed, roast, or broiled lamb or mutton 
may occasionally be used, and when the appetite is 

95 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

poor often proves very tempting. The tag ends 
of chops are usually left from the table, and if 
ground, are readily taken by the dog. 

Liver. — Raw liver may be used occasionally, but 
not as a steady diet. It has a laxative action and 
in costive animals tends to regulate the bowels. 
We do not approve of either boiled or fried liver, 
since, in our experience, it has been found that ani- 
mals fed freely with it, develop a disorder of their 
liver and digestive tract. 

Heart. — Beef and lamb hearts are very nutritious 
and when they can be purchased to a better ad- 
vantage than beef, there is no reason why they 
should not be used extensively. They are usually 
boiled, but may be given raw. 

Lung. — The lungs or lights do not make a par- 
ticularly good food, because they do not contain 
much nourishment and consequently must be given 
in large quantities — the thing we wish most to 
avoid. 

Pork. — This is very hard to digest and should 
not be given in any form. Many dogs that have 
been under observation have developed a violent 
gastritis after eating only small quantities of pork. 

Spiced Meats. — Liverwurst, bolognas, etc., while 
not to be condemned for an occasional emergency 
meal should not be used extensively. They are 
hard to digest, and being tasty tend to cause the 
dog to turn up his nose at ordinary meats. 

Bones. — Dogs should not be given bones of 

96 



Foods and Feeding 



any description. Although they are of value in 
many ways, their bad effects overbalance their good 
qualities. Gnawing at bones is supposed to keep the 
teeth free from tartar, but dry, hard dog crackers 
will answer the purpose equally well. Should the 
system require the liTne from the bones, the 
ground bone meal may be given and the dose 
adjusted so as to prevent constipation. Chop 
bones are especially dangerous for the dog be- 
cause they can be broken up and swallowed. The 
small splinters may be caught in the throat or 
esophagus, and if they succeed in getting into the 
bowel they become lodged in the rectum, causing 
severe constipation and violent inflammation. 
Often these splinters become so firmly impacted that 
they have to be removed with forceps. Larger 
bones may be swallowed whole, obstructing the 
throat, or they may become fast in the bowel and 
cause a stoppage which is frequently fatal. 

Fowl. — This class of meat may be allowed to a 
limited extent. Fowl do not possess as great a 
food value as beef and are more expensive. Dogs 
do not do as well when fed extensively on chicken. 
When these meats are served on the family table 
they may be given to the dog, but their frequent use 
is not to be encouraged. They are not of any par- 
ticular value for tempting sick animals. 

Fish. — The same may be said of fish as of fowl. 
They are to be used only w^hen necessary. When 
they are given, great care must be taken to see that 

97 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

all bones, however small, are removed. The fish 
should be given boiled or baked, but never fried. 
Canned fish is not desirable but may be used in an 
emergency. The fish should never be left in the 
can after it has been opened. 

Dog Crackers. — Dog crackers rank next to meat 
in their desirability as a food. They may be given 
alone or with meat, dry, or moistened with hot 
water or broth. They should not be soaked suffi- 
ciently to make them soggy but should be damp 
and mealy. There are many good makes on the 
market, but those which are not too hard are more 
readily taken by the dog. When the crackers are 
given moist and mixed with meat, a broken cracker 
may be purchased which is cheaper and more con- 
venient. For small dogs and puppies a smaller 
cracker is prepared. This is not as hard as the dog 
cracker and can be more readily handled by the 
smaller animals. Puppy meal is a powdered prepa- 
ration which is excellent directly after weaning. It 
is used uncooked and mixed to a paste with hot 
water or broth. 

Bread. — While bread does not compare with dog 
crackers in nutritive value it is often desirable to 
use it as a filler to produce the necessary bulk for 
the ration. Stale white bread or rolls may be 
given dry or moistened with broth. It should never 
be sufficiently soaked to make it sloppy or soggy. 
The bread is always broken in small pieces and 
mixed with the meat. 

98 



Foods and Feeding 



Cereals. — Cereals may be added to the diet only 
when it is necessary to furnish a ration which is 
fattening. For a thin and hard working dog cereals 
may be given in large quantities, but for a house 
pet they are best avoided except in very small quan- 
tities as a variety. Since they are very fattening 
much care must be used in selecting and appor- 
tioning them. Their use must be discontinued as 
soon as the dog begins to take on flesh. Farina, 
Cream of Wheat, Shredded Wheat, and oatmeal 
may be used in small quantities for the morning 
meal. They are mixed with the meat and moistened 
with a little broth. Corn meal and rice are very 
fattening and hard to digest unless thoroughly 
cooked. Skin troubles are often associated with 
their use. 

Vegetables. — Vegetables which do not contain a 
large amount of starch can be added to the ration 
in small quantities to furnish variety and bulk. Of 
these, spinach is perhaps the best, asparagus, cauli- 
flower, cabbage, and string beans rank next, while 
onions, beets, carrots, turnips and squash are rather 
high. Vegetables having a very high percentage 
of starch are very hard for the dog to digest and 
should be eliminated from the diet entirely. These 
are potatoes, beans, corn, peas and parsnips. When 
vegetables are used they must be well cooked, finely 
mashed, and mixed with other food. At no time 
should they make up more than one-third of the 
meal. 

99 



Your Dos (^^d Your Cat 

Broth. — Beef and lamb broth may be used to 
moisten crackers, puppy meal, bread or cereals, but 
not in quantities sufficient to make the food sloppy. 
It should not be given as a liquid for the dog to 
drink except in cases of special feeding. Before 
using, the fat should be removed from the broth. 

Other Liquids. — For the regular diet all liquids 
except water should be avoided. This includes milk, 
coffee, tea, cocoa. Few dogs are able to take cow's 
milk and for this reason it should not be given ex- 
cept in special cases. 

Fruits, Sweets and Pastries. — Fruits should have 
no place in the dog's diet. Dogs that are par- 
ticularly fond of apples may be given a small piece 
now and then but never to excess. Candy should be 
given the dog only as a vehicle for medicine or as 
a reward for good behavior. The intervals at 
which it is given should be few and far between. 
Pastries of all kinds should absolutely be prohibited. 

Quantity 

It is very difficult to formulate rules governing 
the amount of food that the dog should be given 
because of the great variance in size of individuals 
and the difference in the amount of exercise each 
gets. The best indication is the weight and gen- 
eral condition of the animal. Puppies are expected 
to gain in weight and increase in size until the fif- 
teenth or eighteenth month. The gain should be 

lOO 



Foods and Feeding 



slow and steady, and should consist in enlargement 
of bone and muscle rather than in storage of fat. 
The mature dog should remain at about the same 
weight at all times. Should he begin to take on 
weight on account of the storing of fat, the in- 
dications are that the diet is too rich in fats and 
starches and probably too great in quantity. On 
the other hand, if the dog begins to grow thin 
without showing signs of any diseased condition, 
the amount of food should be increased in quantities 
and fats and starches added. Dogs that are ex- 
cessively fat should be put on a limited diet of raw 
beef. A fat collie can get along with a tablespoon- 
ful of raw beef once or twice a day. Puppies suffer- 
ing from worms are usually very thin but have a 
distended abdomen. If the puppy is young and 
weak it will be necessary to build up his condition 
before purging him of the worms. Such a dog 
should be given meat in large quantities in conjunc- 
tion with cereals, dog crackers, and a few vegetables. 
A Boston Terrier puppy of three months might 
require and take care of a quarter of* a pound of 
beef twice or three times a day, one to three puppy 
biscuits or a cup of Farina and a tablespoonful of 
spinach at each meal. Until a dog reaches maturity 
he should be fed intensively on the best of food. 
After he has reached his growth he should be given 
as little as possible to keep him in good condition. 
If he becomes obese he should immediately be 
placed on a rigid diet until he gets back to normal. 

lot 



Your Dog and Your Cat 



Feeding 

Puppy. — The best food for the newborn puppy 
is, of course, the mother's milk. Not infrequently 
the bitch sacrifices her life in giving birth to her 
brood. In such instance it is advisable to procure a 
foster mother if possible, because rearing the pup- 
pies by hand is a hard and tedious task. If a nurs- 
ing bitch cannot be found a cat will often take her 
place admirably well. 

Breast Feeding — Care of the Bitch. — The bitch 
does not, as a rule, have an abundant supply of milk 
until the second or third day after the puppies are 
born. The first milk is of a different character than 
the regular flow, but is suited to the first needs of the 
pups. The bitch should be kept with her brood most 
of the time for the first few days. After they have 
become strong and active she may be taken away 
two or three times a day in order to obtain exercise. 
A good mother will, if allowed, spend her entire 
time with the puppies, and as a result, her own con- 
dition becomes run down. Constipation may result 
from the intensive feeding and lack of exercise. 
This may be avoided by regularly getting her out 
of doors. 

The bitch must be fed plenty of good, nourishing 
food and allowed an abundance of water. Milk is 
not necessary, but if her digestion is good she may 
be given small quantities mixed with a raw tgg. 
Oatmeal gruel is supposed to produce milk. Good 

I02 



Foods and Feeding 



rich beef broth over her meat and crackers will be 
beneficial, cereals and vegetables may be given to 
some extent. 

About the twenty-first day the bitch often develops 
eclampsia. This may to a certain extent be pre- 
vented by giving the bitch good food which is easy 
to digest, plenty of exercise, and by taking pains 
to keep the bowels open. In eclampsia it is in- 
variably noticed that the puppies have been draw- 
ing pretty hard on the bitch, they are usually fat 
and growing fast, and so if this condition is ob- 
served in the early part of the third week, it is well 
to keep the bitch away from her brood for periods 
of two or three hours in order that she may have 
an opportunity to rest. 

Inflammation of the breasts occasionally occurs 
in the early period of nursing. If immediate treat- 
ment is given, the bitch can usually go on feeding 
the puppies. 

Care of the Puppies. — The mother usually takes 
all necessary care of her brood. She attends to 
their cleaning and to the bowels and urine. It is a 
very common practice with bitches to desert a puppy 
should it become sick. This is probably to attract 
the attention of her master. The sucking pup fre- 
quently suflFers from constipation and colic. The 
abdomen will be found distended, hard and pain- 
ful to touch. An enema of olive oil with a medi- 
cine dropper will relieve the condition. A quarter 

103 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

of a teaspoonful of milk of magnesia may be 
given by mouth. 

Nursing. — Within a short time after birth healthy 
puppies should start to feed. They are able to move 
about and find the breast without aid. The amount 
of food taken at a time, and the duration and fre- 
quency of the feedings are regulated by the demand 
of the body. With a disturbance of digestion the 
appetite becomes depraved and the puppy gorges 
himself with abnormal amounts. In such condi- 
tions it is necessary to determine the cause and 
correct it. 

Lack of Milk. — Often when a young bitch has an 
exceptionally large litter she is unable to supply 
enough milk for all of them. If the puppies are not 
of great value a part of them should be destroyed 
directly after birth or a foster mother may be 
procured to take part of them. Otherwise about the 
second week the puppies will begin to show effects 
of lack of food. Bitches which are in poor health 
are often unable to care for a normal litter. If all 
of the puppies become restless, cry a great deal, and 
nurse frantically, it is suggestive of lack of milk. 
An examination of the breasts should be made and 
if no milk is found the puppies should be taken from 
the mother so that she may rest for a few hours 
without the puppies removing the milk. After 
three hours the breasts may again be examined, and 
if no milk has formed in the interim the puppies 
Avill have to be put entirely on the bottle. If a 

104 



Foods and Feeding 



small quantity of milk is present the puppies may 
be fed by hand a part of the time and left with 
the bitch for the remainder, or some of the puppies 
may be taken from her entirely, leaving the rest 
to nurse. When the litter is to be bottle fed part 
of the time, they should be taken from the bitch the 
first thing in the morning and given two feedings 
in the forenoon at three or four hour intervals. 
They should be allowed to nurse the bitch for a 
short time in the middle of the day, in order to re- 
move the milk already formed. In the afternoon 
they may be given two bottle feedings and at night 
put back with the bitch. 

Superabundance of Milk. — The bitch sometimes 
has too much milk, especially when the litter is small 
or when the puppies have all died or been killed. 
Puppies are naturally greedy and if there is an 
abundant supply of milk, they are apt to gorge 
themselves and later suffer from colic. If the milk 
is retained in the breasts they usually become in- 
flamed. In either case some of the milk should be 
drawn from the breasts at frequent intervals. 

Bottle Feeding — Care of the Puppies — (i) Tem- 
perature. — Keeping the puppies artificially warm is 
of great importance in rearing orphans. They do 
not generate enough heat to maintain the proper 
body temperature. They may be kept in a box in 
the bottom of which is a hot water bottle well 
covered with flannel cloth or absorbent cotton. An 
electric pad may be used but there is danger that the 

105 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

puppies may be injured if the pad accidentally be- 
comes too hot. In winter the box may be kept on 
or near the radiator. The sides of the box must 
be of sufficient height to prevent the puppies from 
climbing out as they grow older. 

(2) Cleanliness. — The puppies must be cleaned 
every day. The discharges are washed away with 
warm water and any matted condition of the hair 
cleaned. A very slight amount of sweet oil or 
cocoanut oil may be rubbed over the hair to prevent 
discharge from sticking to it. Neglect in cleaning 
brings about eczema at any place where the hair 
is matted. Pus forms under the matted hair, caus- 
ing it to fall out. 

(3) Functions. — Urination may be stimulated 
by tapping the end of the sheath or the vagina. 
This should be done at least at every other feeding. 
If the bowels do not move, the puppy must be given 
an enema of olive oil. If necessary these may be 
given every day. 

Food. — It is the usual custom in feeding puppies 
to dilute cow's milk with water. Sometimes sugar 
is added. Bitch's milk is much richer in fat than 
cow's milk, but does not contain near as much 
sugar. It is, therefore, evident that cow's milk 
instead of being weakened should be enriched for 
the puppy. Cream contains about double the amount 
of fat and sugar found in bitch's milk. The top 
eight ounces from a quart bottle of the average 
cow's milk which has stood for eight hours to allow 

106 



Foods and Feeding 



the cream to rise, will contain about the right quan- 
tity of fat, but will be heavy in sugar. Eggs con- 
tain about the same amount of fat, but no sugar. 
A prepared milk may be made by diluting cream 
with an equal amount of water, by taking the top 
of the bottle of cow's milk, or by adding a raw tgg 
to half a cup of whole milk. Of these formulas the 
first most nearly corresponds to the bitch's milk. 
The puppies may be fed with a medicine dropper or 
a small bottle may be arranged with a nipple. 

Feedings. — First week: Puppies are fed at two 
hour intervals from 7 a. m. to 7 p. m. and at three 
hour intervals during the night, making ten feed- 
ings in the twenty- four hours. Quantity: one-half 
to one teaspoonful, increased if there is no distress 
and if the puppies act hungry. Second week: Feed- 
ings every three hours during the day from 7 a. m. 
to 7 P. M. and every four hours during the night, 
making seven feedings during the twenty-four 
hours. Quantity: increased according to the ap- 
petite and condition of the puppies. Third week: 
Feedings every three hours during the day from 
7 A. M. to 10 p. M. with one feeding during the 
night, making six feedings during the twenty-four 
hours. Quantity: Increased to meet the demands 
of the puppies. One teaspoonful of beef juice is 
allowed each day. The puppies should be encour- 
aged to lap milk from the finger and later from a 
dish. Fourth week: Feedings continued at the 
same intervals. Quantity: Increased as necessary. 

107 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

More beef juice can be given. As soon as the 
puppies lap the milk freely weaning may be started. 

Weaning — Bottle Puppies. — It is essential that 
the bottle puppy be weaned as early as possible in 
order to eliminate much of the work of caring for 
it. As soon as the puppy readily takes his milk 
from a dish a small quantity of puppy meal, farina, 
or Cream of Wheat may be mixed with it. At first 
only sufficient should be used to make a thin paste, 
later it may be gradually thickened. This may be 
given only at one meal, but slowly it may displace 
the plain milk feedings. As soon as the puppy is 
getting the solid food entirely, the number of feed- 
ings can be decreased to every four hours during 
the day, with one feeding at night. Beef broth is, 
then, gradually used to take the place of the milk. 
Beef juice is given once or twice a day in teaspoon- 
ful doses. Raw scrapped beef is next used in con- 
nection with the puppy meal, starting with a half 
teaspoonful once a day and increasing the amount 
and number of feedings as the animal becomes ac- 
customed to it. Boiled beef may then be substituted 
for the raw meat, for a part or all of the feedings. 
During this time the amount of puppy meal may be 
increased if it is indicated. By the time it is six 
weeks old the puppy should be getting the beef and 
puppy meal exclusively. Water may be given as 
soon as the puppy begins to lap. 

Breast Puppies. — Unless there is some special 
reason for it they need not be weaned until they 

io8 



Foods and Feeding 



are six weeks old. At that time the bitch will ordi- 
narily superintend the procedure, herself. Their 
weaning may be hastened by offering the puppy 
food along the lines described for the bottle puppies. 
If they readily take food weaning may be hastened 
with advantage. 

From Weaning to Four Months. — By the time 
the puppies are eating their meat and puppy meal 
well the night feeding may be discontinued. Four 
feedings during the day will suffice, but one of these 
should come just before bedtime. Gradually 
cereals may be added to the diet, together with a 
few vegetables, such as spinach, string beans, and 
carrots. These should be well cooked and mashed. 
The tendency for puppies at this age to overeat 
must be controlled carefully. Worms or rickets, 
if in evidence, should be treated. Eczema and fall- 
ing of the coat will appear if the digestion is not 
good. 

Four Months to a Year. — At four months the 
feedings may be reduced to three a day. Puppy 
crackers may be substituted for the meal. Meats 
other than beef can be used. If the animal is doing 
well more vegetables may be given. If the appetite 
is especially good the crackers can be given dry. 
Stale bread or rolls can take the place of the 
crackers to some extent. The condition of the dog 
will regulate the amount of food to be given. After 
nine months two feedings a day are sufficient. Dog 
crackers may now be given if desired. 

109 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

Mature Dog. — AH grown dogs should be fed at 
least twice a day, for if they are required to con- 
sume in one meal all their body needs for the 
twenty- four hours, the stomach becomes excessively 
dilated and in time digestion is affected. The meals 
should be spread out as much as possible but the 
evening meal must not be given too near bedtime. 
Regularity is very important. The feeding time 
should vary but little from day to day. Stomach 
upsets can easily result from carelessness in the way 
the food is given. 

The amount of food the dog receives must de- 
pend on his physical condition rather than his ap- 
petite. Dogs are as a rule very greedy eaters, and 
if given their own way will eat all they can hold. 
This is the mistake most commonly made and is 
the cause of a great deal of the dog's trouble. The 
dog should be kept in good trim condition, just fat 
enough to round the body nicely. A dog is too thin 
when his ribs stand out plainly, but he is altogether 
too fat when they are so covered that it is hard 
to distinguish each individual rib. 

Meat should make up a substantial portion of the 
meal. From this is derived the nutritive material 
which feeds the body cells in compensation for the 
wear and tear of the body activities. Fats and 
starches are needed for the production of heat, 
and to make the fat of the body. For inactive ani- 
mals but little of this kind of food is required. 
Meat, however, is so concentrated and so thor- 

IIO 



Foods and Feeding 



oughly digested and assimilated that some otfier 
food is needed to add bulk to the ration. Dog 
crackers, cereals and bread are used for this pur- 
pose. Vegetables are given largely for the iron 
they contain and to offer variety to the diet. 

For the morning meal, raw or boiled beef may 
be used, or some suitable meat, if any remains 
from the previous evening meal. This can be mixed 
with cereal, dog crackers, or toast. Farina, Cream 
of Wheat, Shredded Wheat or oatmeal may be 
given if available. At night if suitable meat has 
been used on the family table there should be suffi- 
cient of the less desirable portions left, which, if 
ground through the chopper, would make a very 
palatable meat for the dog. This can be mixed 
with crackers or bread crumbs, which have been 
moistened with broth. If a proper vegetable is 
available, a small portion may be added. In pre- 
paring the crackers or bread, too much emphasis 
cannot be placed on the fact that they should be 
moistened, but not soaked. They are broken into 
a dish and the broth is poured over them only to 
be immediately strained off. This will leave the 
crackers mealy, but not soggy or sloppy. 

Important Points on Feeding — Special Feeding. — 
Dogs that are thin but thoroughly digest their food 
may be given a liberal allowance of crackers, 
cereals, and vegetables. Cereals especially, are fat- 
tening. If the dog is very weak a liberal portion 
of meat should be allowed and in addition raw 

III 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

eggs may be given either over the food or with a 
small quantity of milk as a drink. This is fre- 
quently given in place of water when the bowels are 
inclined to be loose. Bone meal is also serviceable 
in chronic diarrhea. 

Dogs that are very fat should be placed on a re- 
stricted diet in order that they may regain proper 
proportions. The food should consist largely of 
meat in very meager amounts. A tablespoonful of 
meat is sufficient for a collie that is excessively fat. 

Overfeeding. — The most common error in the 
care of the dog is overfeeding. Few people are 
satisfied unless the dog has eaten all that he desires. 
After he has had his fill they leave a portion in 
case he should get hungry later. Such indulgence, 
while prompted by a spirit of kindness, is very 
harmful to the dog. He, of course, grows fat and 
lazy and though no trouble may ensue for a long 
time, sooner or later the results become evident. It 
is a great hardship to a dog to be placed on a re- 
stricted diet after having been allowed all sorts 
of food in abundant quantities. 

Improper Feeding. — Dogs suffer more than any 
other animal from improper food. This trouble 
begins with puppies as soon as they are weaned. 
They are almost invariably given large amounts of 
cow's milk and for the majority of dogs this is 
very harmful, because they gorge themselves so 
as to obtain sufficient nourishment. To this is added 
bread, store crackers, cereals and potatoes, all of 

112 



Foods and Feeding 



which contain a large amount of starch and little 
protein. The sloppy diet is, in particular, conducive 
to indigestion, and is usually continued until trouble 
results. The fear of meat is, to a large extent, to 
blame for most cases of improper feeding. 

Forced Feeding. — In some dogs that refuse food, 
it is necessary to supply nourishment to the body. 
The simplest method consists in feeding liquid 
foods by means of a spoon or syringe. When these 
are placed in the mouth the dog will usually swal- 
low, but in some cases they absolutely refuse to do 
so. The nostril may be closed to prevent breath- 
ing in an attempt to induce the dog to take the 
food, but this must be done carefully to avoid chok- 
ing. If after the dog has been thus fed, he vomits, 
no further food should be given till the stomach 
has been put in shape to receive it. 

Food may also be given by the rectum. An enema 
of soapy water is first given to free the lower 
bowel of fecal matter. It is washed out with a 
weak solution of table salt and then the food is 
slowly injected. 

For artificial feeding a raw Qgg beaten with two 
tablespoonfuls of milk is perhaps the best. Beef 
juice is very nourishing, broth may be given and 
for rectal feeding oatmeal gruel is very good. 

Water 

The healthy dog should have free access to water 
at all times, except after a long hard run, when he 

"3 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

is very warm. At such times he should be given 
only a small amount at a time until he has cooled 
off. Water must be withheld when the dog is 
suffering from: 

Weak Stomach. — The dog should not be allowed 
a drink of water for a half hour after eating. At 
other times he may be allowed a reasonable quantity. 

Gastritis. — Even small amounts of water will in- 
duce vomiting when the stomach is badly inflamed. 
The thirst should be quenched by lapping cracked 
ice. Only a few laps should be allowed at a time. 

Diarrhea. — In the early stages a limited amount 
of water may be given. Should the diarrhea be- 
come severe water must be withheld and liquids 
supplied the system in the form of tgg and milk or 
oatmeal gruel in small quantities and at frequent 
intervals. 

Chronic Diseases. — In chronic diseases of the 
liver and kidneys when the thirst is abnormal, but- 
termilk may be substituted for water. 



CHAPTER VI 
TRAINING THE DOG 

Good manners and clean habits are the chief 
assets of the pet dog, and even though he may 
possess a wonderful pedigree showing the best of 
breeding, if he does not display evidence of proper 
training, he will find no friend in the home. Train- 
ing an animal is simply a matter of education, and 
in the dog the possibilities are far-reaching, for his 
amiability, intelligence, power of reasoning, and 
wonderful instincts are coupled with a devotion and 
faithfulness to his master that prompt him to obey 
his every wish. When these traits are developed 
the dog is a far more agreeable companion than one 
that has been allowed to grow up without proper 
attention to his mental powers. To be well trained 
the dog does not necessarily need to do tricks. 
While this is amusing to the owner and sometimes 
to the animal, it has no bearing on his fitness for 
the house. 

The effect of training is evidenced In the dog by 
his refined and dignified appearance. He develops 
a keen. Intelligent expression as compared with the 
dull, stupid, sleepy look of the undeveloped dog. He 
becomes attractive and wins the admiration and love 

lis 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

of all who come in contact with him. He is alert 
and prompt in responding to commands and com- 
plaisant in carrying them out. The man who care- 
fully educates his dog profits much by the experi- 
ence, for he will find that by thoroughly studying 
the dog, he will himself learn many interesting 
things concerning animal nature, and the power of 
development. 

Training Age 

The dog's training should begin while he is still 
a small puppy, for when it is started early the 
undertaking is much easier. Of course at an early 
age the progress will be slow, but the influence of 
the owner's attentions will show marked effects on 
the disposition of the animal, even if no definite 
habits are developed. If the dog's education is 
neglected until he is six or eight months old, he will 
have acquired many undesirable habits that will 
be very hard to correct. But if the dog changes 
ownership at this time and is taken into new sur- 
roundings it will not be so difficult to control his 
actions providing the training is commenced im- 
mediately. 'Kt such an age the dog will be capable 
of absorbing more knowledge and will be able to 
conceive more readily what is desired of him. 
Many dogs, however, develop, as they grow older, 
a very obstinate disposition which is almost impos- 
silple to conquer. 

ii6 



Training the Dog 



Methods 

The owner must first develop in his dog a feel- 
ing of trust and a desire to please. He must con- 
duct himself in such a way that the dog will have 
no cause to fear him. He should never shout at the 
animal nor scare him. If the dog is naturally timid 
he must approach him carefully, at the same time 
talking encouragingly to him. No attempt should 
be made to control his actions until the fear is 
overcome. The dog should not be asked to do 
anything that will frighten or harm him nor should 
he be forced to do that which he does not under- 
stand. By liberally praising the dog when he does 
do right and rewarding him, a desire to please will 
be stimulated. 

When the dog has learned to trust his owner 
he must then be taught who is master. While the 
owner must not force him to do what he does not 
understand or is unable to do, he must always fin- 
ish what he starts. If the owner desires, for ex- 
ample, to give his dog a dose of castor oil, that 
oil must be given before he calls quits, if it takes 
an hour, with three people to hold the animal; 
otherwise he will never be able to give him oil 
or anything else. To be a desirable pet, the dog 
must learn to obey the will of his master, but the 
master must be fair and reasonable in what he 
expects of his dog. 

In teaching the dog a task, he must be repeatedly 
117 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

shown what is expected of him until the owner is 
absolutely sure that he thoroughly understands. 
Once accomplished, the deed should be frequently 
repeated until he is familiar with it. The dog 
must not be punished until his master is certain 
that he knows what is wanted. He should first 
attempt to coerce him by coaxing and talking to 
him or by bribing him with bits of meat. If he 
fails to respond he may be sharply scolded; if this 
is of no avail he may be punished. A strap or 
switch should always be kept for this purpose alone, 
and the owner should never hit with his hand or 
with anything used about the dog, or the dog will 
always be expecting a licking. 

The mind of the dog is capable of much develop- 
ment if the owner is interested enough to stimulate 
it. He can comprehend much from a conversation 
of simple words such as would be used with a 
child. In giving commands, however, the same 
word should always be used for the same act, and 
the tone of the voice should always convey the 
spirit of the command. A reprimand should 
be sufficiently harsh to convey the necessity of 
obedience. 

Manners 

In the House. — The dog must be taught to re- 
spond to his name, to come when called, or to lie 
down when told. He should learn in what room he 
is forbidden and on what furniture he must not 

ii8 



Training the Dog 



lie. He should be accustomed to having his meals 
served for him in a certain place, at a certain time, 
and should be absolutely forbidden the room during 
the family meals, and especially should he learn not 
to coax for food from those at the table. He must 
be taught not to play with and tear up shoes, or 
other articles of clothing. He must learn not to 
scratch the rugs or chew the furniture. He must 
be accustomed to his bath and to the brush and 
comb. He must learn to submit to being handled, 
to have his mouth opened and examined, to have 
his ears cleaned, and to take medicine. 

On the Street. — It is quite important that the 
dog be taught to walk quietly at heel if he must 
be taken on the crowded street for exercise. This 
is not a difficult lesson, but is more easily taught 
older dogs than puppies, for there is considerable 
danger of breaking their spirit by being too strict 
at an early age. Puppies are naturally restless crea- 
tures with an inquisitiveness which leads them 
everywhere, and this, to a certain extent, should be 
encouraged. But, of course, endless trouble will 
be provoked if the dog is allowed to chase about 
the sidewalk jumping at people or getting in their 
way. The dog should also be prohibited from 
sniffing at other dogs, both because of the danger 
of contracting disease, and provoking a fight. 

When on the street, the dog should be controlled 
by a leader attached to his collar or harness. He 
may want to run in front, and while this is all right 

119 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

it is much better for him to follow his companion 
close at the heel. When teaching this to the dog 
the owner should shorten the leader as much as 
possible. If the dog tries to go in front of him as 
he starts to walk, the animal should be pulled back, 
at the same time, receiving the command to heel. 
If the dog persists in running forward he may be 
lightly tapped on the nose with a light switch. As 
the lessons progress he will soon learn to jaunt 
along behind his companion. 

With Strangers. — It is well that the dog be not 
too friendly with strangers, for it tends to destroy 
his individuality and unfits him for protection as 
a watchdog. On the other hand, the pet dog must 
be made to understand distinctly that he must not 
show fear or distrust of strangers into whose hands 
he has been put by his master. This is of special 
benefit when it is necessary to leave the animal in 
the care of a stranger at vacation time, or when the 
veterinarian has to be called. Nothing is more an- 
noying to the busy practitioner than trying to help 
an animal which he cannot handle without using 
hard tactics. The dog may, however, be taught 
to attack, at his master's command, any strangers 
who attempt to enter the house or harm his person. 

House Breaking 

Cleanliness about the house is very essential in 
a pet. Every puppy must be taught where he is to 

1 20 



Training the Dog 



clean himself, for they have no other way of know- 
ing. In the apartment where a pan of sawdust or 
newspaper is provided, it should be so placed that 
the animal can at all times have access to it, and 
it should always be kept in the same place. This 
should be made ready before the dog is brought into 
the house. As soon as he arrives he should be im- 
mediately taken to the paper, and if possible, kept 
there until he uses it. The paper is then left as 
it is, so that later in his travels about the house 
when he comes upon the paper, he is attracted by 
the odor and is induced to use it again. In this 
way the habit is formed, for once a dog has made 
use of a place he is prone to return. Of course, 
sooner or later, he is bound to misbehave, and 
then he must be shown what he has done and 
severely scolded. If, however, he persists in this, 
it will be necessary to punish him, providing this 
can be associated with the misbehavior. 

Where it is desirable that the dog should go 
out of doors to care for himself, it will be neces- 
sary to take him out as soon as he arrives and keep 
him out until he cleans himself. While in the house 
he should be carefully watched for signs of un- 
easiness; this is warning to take him out. After 
a while he will learn that by going to the door he 
will be taken out and when he has acquired this 
habit he should always be attended to when show- 
ing this desire. With a little care the dog can be 

121 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

regulated to go out at certain hours and will care 
for himself at these times. He should have this 
opportunity at least twice, and better four times a 
day, one of which is the last thing at night. 



CHAPTER VII 
SELECTION OF THE DOG 

Breed 

The pleasure derived from the dog depends 
largely upon the wisdom shown in the selection of 
the breed best suited for the conditions under 
which he is to be kept. The work of the dog covers 
such a wide range of duties, for each of which a 
specific breed has been developed, that there is a 
great variety from which to choose. The char- 
acteristics of the individual breed have been acquired 
in compliance with the requirements of the service 
for which he is intended. The physical develop- 
ment of the dog is in direct proportion to the ac- 
tivities and strenuousness of his work, and his man- 
ner of living is in conformity with it. Although 
the dog is very adaptable to environment he can- 
not fit his mode of living to conditions which difiFer 
too greatly from his natural habits, without dis- 
astrous results to his health. And so in selecting a 
dog, one should be chosen whose natural environ- 
ment most nearly conforms with the accommoda- 
tions available. 

Qualifications.— The suitability of the dog for the 
house depends chiefly on the amount of exercise he 
requires as compared with the owner's ability to 

123 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

supply it under the conditions at hand. Although 
the size and conformation of the animal must also 
be taken into consideration, they are the factors 
which generally determine the exercise require- 
ments. Certain breed peculiarities and the purpose 
for which the animal was bred must also be con- 
sidered. 

Size. — No class of animals varies so in size as 
the dog, who ranges from the toy of one pound or 
less to the St. Bernard of two hundred and fifty. 
It is evident that the housing requirements of 
dogs of different sizes are unlike. The toy could 
not be allowed to roam about the streets at liberty 
nor should the St. Bernard be confined to the limita- 
tions of the small apartment. In order more clearly 
to bring out the differences in size of the dog, the 
various breeds, which are usually chosen as pets, 
will be roughly grouped in classes according to 
their size. 

Classification of the Breeds 



Toys 




{under twelve pounds) 


Pekingese Pomeranian 


Toy Poodle 


Japanese Spaniel Skipperke 


Brussels Griffon 


English Toy Spaniels: Terriers: 


Chihuahua 


King Charles Yorkshire 


Mexican Hairless 


Prince Charles Maltese 


Pug 


Blenheim Toy Black and Tan 




Ruby Toy Bull 





124 



Selection of the Dog 



Small Dogs 
{twelve to twenty-five pounds) 



Terriers: 




Terriers: 


Bulldogs 


Boston 




Scotch 


English 


Fox 




West Highland 


French 


Smooth 




Sealyham 


Dachshund 


Wire-hair 




Cairn 




Black and 


Tan 


Dandie Dinmont 




Skye 




Welsh 





Medium Dogs 

{twenty-five to fifty pounds) 



Terriers: 


Hounds: 


Samoyede 


Irish 


Beagle 


Spitz 


Airedale 


Bassett 


Chow 


Bedlington 


Pointers 




English Bull 


Cocker Spaniel 




Doeberman Pinscher 


Dalmatian 

Large Dogs 

{over fifty pounds) 




Shepherd Dog 


Setters : 


St. Bernard 


Belgian Police Dog 


English 


Newfoundland 


English Sheep Dog 


Irish 


Great Dane 


Collie 


Gordon 


Mastiff 


Spaniels: 


Retrievers 


Chesapeake Bay Dog 


Irish 


Greyhound 


Eskimo Dog 


Clumber 


Bloodhound 




Field 


Deerhound 





Conformation. — The conformation of the dog 
alters to some extent the amount of exercise he 
needs. The bulldogs, notably the English, while 
much heavier than others of their class, do not 
require much exercise because of their peculiar 

125 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

build. Their short crooked legs are not able to 
carry their heavy bodies at a very fast pace, and 
because of their short mushed nose it is hard for 
them to breathe. The other extreme is the Whippet 
or the Italian Greyhound, for while they are light 
weight dogs, they are built for speed and endurance 
and consequently require much freedom. 

Characteristics — Toys. — Because of their suit- 
ability as house and lap dogs the toys have become 
very popular. Being of diminutive size and delicate 
construction, they are well adapted to confinement 
since they require a minimum amount of exercise. 
They usually belong to women or children and 
there is a great tendency among such owners to cater 
to their pettish whims until they virtually become 
slaves to their dogs. Such conduct, while intended 
as a kindness, is really a cruelty, since the exceed- 
ingly low vitality of these animals is due to such 
treatment rather than to any abnormality in their 
conformation. This statement can readily be cor- 
roborated by observing the difference in health of 
the dog kept in this manner, and that of the same 
type treated as he should be. In selecting a dog, 
the toys should not be rejected by lovers of real 
dogs because of prejudice based on the spoiled 
specimens which may have been seen, for they are 
really very desirable companions when given the 
proper chance. 

(i) Pekingese. — The Pekingese is, by far, the 
most desirable of all the toys. He is a strong, rugged, 

126 



Selection of the Dog 



healthy little animal and consequently very resistant 
to disease. He is somewhat exclusive in his friend- 
ships and occasionally exhibits a marked degree of 
temper. His courage and boldness often acquire 
for him an immunity against much deserved punish- 
ment. Although seemingly combative, when it 
comes to a showdown he is mostly bluff. 

(2) Pomeranian. — The Pomeranian is a bright, 
active, and affectionate little dog. Being very timid 
and highly nervous he is often snappy with 
strangers. He is not so vigorous as the Pekingese 
nor does he possess as great a resistance to disease. 
This weakness has been much exaggerated in late 
years by the tendency of breeders to strive to pro- 
duce exceptionally small specimens. 

(3) Poodle. — The Toy Poodle by far outnum- 
bers all other toys. He is supposed to be very in- 
telligent and is used extensively in animal acts. 
Although toward their owners they are most affec- 
tionate and loving, with others they are the most 
treacherous dogs living. It is because of this that 
they are so unpopular with all who are called upon 
to handle strange dogs. Poodles are very sickly 
animals, suffering much from indigestion, eczema 
and acute pulmonary diseases. The eyes, almost 
invariably, discharge a serous fluid which discolors 
the hair around them. Their long white coats re- 
quire much combing and bathing. 

Small Dogs. — The terriers of the second group, 
with the exception of the Boston, were developed 

127 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

because of their value in unearthing small game 
and vermin which seek refuge in burrows. Since 
they are expected to dig out their prey rather than 
pursue it through the open field, they are small, 
compact, and muscular. They are built low to the 
ground, and for this reason require only a limited 
amount of exercise. Through necessity they are 
courageous and daring, and are born fighters. Not- 
withstanding this they are amiable creatures and 
make wonderful companions. 

(i) Fox Terrier. — The Fox Terrier is one of 
the oldest and- best known dogs. He is a very 
affectionate, courageous, and cheerful animal with 
an alert expression, quick and active ways. As a 
rule he outlives all other breeds, often reaching six- 
teen and eighteen years of age ; occasionally he has 
been reported to have lived for twenty years. Be- 
cause he is too often overfed he frequently becomes 
fat, unsightly, and asthmatic. If reared with chil- 
dren he makes a wonderful companion and pro- 
tector for them, but when he is not used to them is 
not to be trusted. 

(2) Scotch Terrier. — This is the nicest all- 
around dog for the house. He is a short-legged, 
stockily built, rough-coated animal, possessing a 
most wonderful disposition. He is very even- 
tempered and gentle, and while not snappy with 
strangers, possesses a total indifference toward any- 
one but his master. His trustful eye, homely come- 
liness, and whimsical playfulness combine to endear 

128 



Selection of the Dog 



the Scottish Terrier strongly, and no dog is more 
companionable or affectionate. The Sealyham, 
West Highland, Cairn and Dandie Dinmont all 
resemble the Scotty, except for color markings. 

(3) Boston Terrier. — The Boston Terrier is an 
American made dog developed by crossing the Eng- 
lish Bulldog and the Bull Terrier. This dog has 
been bred, at least in late years, strictly as a high 
class pet, and the results are very satisfactory. He 
is a bright, playful, courteous little dog, stockily 
built and well proportioned. His average weight is 
twenty pounds ; however, he is most desired in the 
show ring at twelve to fifteen, but at this extreme 
is apt to lose his rugged constitution. He makes 
a desirable companion for any member of the 
family from the child up. 

(4) Dachshund. — The Dachshund or Badger 
Dog, as he is now known, is a mixture of hound 
and terrier, developed to enter a badger hole and 
attract the animal's attention while he is being dug 
out. This accounts for his extremely short legs 
and long body. His disposition and manners well 
fit a house dog. 

(5) Bulldogs. — The English and French Bull- 
dogs, while not belonging to this class as far as 
weight is concerned, are grouped here because of 
their fitness for the house. They are too short- 
legged and too short-winded to require much free- 
dom. The English Bull is a good-natured gentle 
dog, in spite of his forbidding appearance, and 

129 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

makes a safe and dependable family dog. The 
French is more exclusive in his friendships, not so 
extreme in conformation, and for this reason more 
desirable. Both dogs are excellent with children 
and of exceptional value as watchdogs. 

Medium-sized Dogs. — The terriers of the third 
class are much larger and more active than those 
already described. They are more rangy in type 
and are strong and husky. Because of their size 
and activeness they require much freedom and 
should not be confined to city flats. They are 
"real dogs" and make suitable companions for men. 

(i) Airedale. — The Airedale is the most popu- 
lar large terrier in this country. He is fearless and, 
though not particularly quarrelsome, never avoids 
a fight. He is very intelligent, companionable, and 
frolicsome. 

(2) English Bull Terrier. — This is a beautiful 
and refined dog that will always attract attention. 
He is popularly known as the fighting bull terrier, 
and often carries his battle scars. When kept in 
close confinement he grows fat and lazy and be- 
comes unsightly, 

(3) Doeberman Pinscher. — While this dog is a 
comparatively new dog in this country, his delight- 
ful personality should fast bring him into favor. 
He is a "one man" dog and does not readily make 
friends. But he is ever faithful and loyal to his 
owner. 

(4) Dalmatian. — This dog is of undependable 



Selection of the Dog 



disposition. Occasionally a specimen may be found 
that is good-natured and friendly, but as a rule they 
are very reserved and repel the attentions of any- 
one but the master. He is a very active dog and re- 
quires a great deal of freedom. In New York he 
has come to be known as the fire dog, because of 
the frequency with which he is found about fire 
houses. 

The Spicz, Samoyede, Chow, and Eskimo dogs 
all have the same general characteristics, varying 
only in size and color. They are strong, compact, 
and husky, liberally covered with hair to protect 
them from the severe cold of their native lands. 
Although quite popular as pets it is hardly justifi- 
able to confine them to the house because of their 
heavy coats. They possess a very savage disposi- 
tion which even their most intimate companions 
find difiicult to control. 

Large Dogs. — All of this group of dogs are, in 
their natural state, hard working animals. They 
are bred for duties which require strength and 
speed. Some of the largest, notably the Great Dane 
and the St. Bernard, have the most amiable dis- 
positions and cool even ter^per, which particularly 
fits them as companions fo/ children. Their huge 
size, however, eliminates them as pets except where 
unlimited freedom can be provided. 

(i) CoHie. — Of this class of dogs the collie is 
most frequently seen in the city. This dog, a native 
of Scotland, was developed to herd the flocks over 

131 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

the hills and mountains in all sorts of weather. To 
bring him into the city and confine him as is neces- 
sary, is very unjust to the animal as well as unsatis- 
factory to the owner. This is unfortunate because 
the dog is very desirable as a pet, but when his 
freedom is limited disastrous results are bound to 
follow sooner or later. 

(2) Shepherd Dog. — Of late this dog has be- 
come very popular and is finding his way in 
large numbers into the city. He is a typical "one 
man" dog and is unexcelled as a watchdog. In fact 
he is used extensively by the police for patrolling 
the outlying districts of the city and has won great 
favor by his skill in running down marauders. It 
may be seen that this dog, being strongly built and 
husky, requires much more liberty than he can pos- 
sibly obtain if kept in the city home. 

Accommodations — Apartment House. — In the 
city and, especially in New York, the great majority 
of dogs, as well as people, are, from necessity, con- 
fined to the limitations of an apartment. Such 
surroimdings do not of¥er the dog much opportunity 
to live a natural life. The house is usually crowded 
with furniture and it is impossible for him to romp 
about. For exercise he must be taken to the roof 
or the street. He cannot be turned loose but must 
follow his master at a slow pace. The duration of 
such exercise depends wholly on the owner's avail- 
able time or his inclination to walk. 

Large dogs should be left entirely out of con- 
132 



Selection of the Dog 



sideration when selecting a pet for the apartment 
house. It is a great injustice to force a dog, used 
to his freedom, into such confinement, for he is 
little better off than the criminal in jail. The Collie, 
Shepherd, Russian Wolfhound, Great Dane, Aire- 
dale, and Irish Terrier are all too large and active 
for these close quarters. 

Even with these large dogs eliminated there is 
still a large number of breeds from which to make 
a choice. The toys are specially adapted for the 
apartment. They have been bred and developed 
precisely for such surroundings. In this class of 
dogs there are sixteen choices of which the 
Pekingese, Pomeranian, Toy Poodle, Maltese 
Terrier and the English Toy Spaniels are readily 
available at reasonable prices. The Skipperke and 
Brussels Griffon are comparatively rare specimens 
for those who desire something different from the 
ordinary. Of the small dogs, the Boston Terrier, 
Fox Terrier, Black and Tan, and the Dachshund 
are common breeds; while the Scottish Terrier 
group are more exclusive. 

House and Yard. — Where a yard can be sup- 
plied in which the animal can spend a large part of 
his time, the range of choice can be considerably 
broadened. Even though the dog does not exer- 
cise a great deal, he will derive great benefit from 
the open air and the feeling of freedom. Cats, birds, 
and children offer a source of amusement which 
tends to keep the dog in action. During the winter 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

months he is stimulated to exercise by the cold. 
Becoming hardened to this exposure the dog is 
much less apt to fall prey to pulmonary diseases or 
distemper. Besides the dogs of the second group, 
the Chow, Samoyede, Spitz, and the terriers of the 
third group are all adaptable to such conditions. 
The Airedale is almost too large and active, how- 
ever, for even this amount of freedom. The Collie 
does not do well even when allowed the freedom of 
the yard. 

Country Estate. — For those who enjoy the pleas- 
ures of a country home, with abundant grounds, the 
choice of a dog is purely a matter of fancy. 

Suitability to Purpose. — The suitability of the 
dog for the purpose for which he is intended is, 
from the owner's standpoint, very important. Most 
of the city dogs are kept solely as pets, yet some 
are used as watchdogs and a few for sporting pur- 
poses. Many dogs are kept in the apartment for 
breeding, but the practice is not to be encouraged, 
because they lead such an abnormal life that they 
are not very successful as breeders. 

The Pet. — The disposition of the pet dog should 
be harmonious with its owner's, providing it is to 
be the property of any one member of the family. 
Each individual will have his or her ideas as to the 
type of dog desired. Men, as a rule, prefer a large 
or medium sized dog, that is strong, active, playful, 
and intelligent. He should be fit for long hard 
romps, of sufficient courage and fighting ability to 

134 



Selection of the Dog 



protect himself and his master. A dog that readily 
learns little tricks is often a favorite with a man. 
The Airedale, Irish and Boston Terriers, the French 
and the English Bulldog, the Chow and the Doe- 
berman Pinscher are all typical men's dogs. Most 
women desire a small, soft, cuddly, long-haired dog 
which can easily be carried on the arm. They must 
be even-tempered, have a loving, peaceful disposi- 
tion, and above all be clean in their habits. The 
dog must be of the type that is fond of much 
pampering and petting. The Pekingese and Pom- 
eranian are representatives of this type. The small 
terriers, especially the Scotch and Sealyham, make 
wonderful pets for women. Among the large dogs, 
the Collie and Greyhound are excellent. 

In selecting a dog for children great pains should 
be taken to obtain a suitable companion. Children, 
though not meaningly so, are generally very rough 
and abusive to their toys and pets. They frequently 
slap the animal, throw sticks at him, pull his hair 
or tail, and in general maul him about. Some dogs, 
will tolerate this treatment with apparent enjoy- 
ment, while others absolutely will not endure it. 
Dogs that have been brought up from puppyhood 
with children usually play very carefully with 
them. Still it is more or less of a breed character- 
istic. Many stories are told of the gentleness of 
the St. Bernard in caring for children. The Fox 
Terrier, when reared with them, usually plays well 
with children, but if brought in when a mature dog 

135 



Your Do2 and Your Cat 

is not to be trusted too far. The English Bulldog 
makes an excellent playfellow and protector of the 
child. Long-haired dogs should be avoided, dogs 
that are too large and boisterous are apt to hurt 
the small child in harmless play, and the fight- 
ing dog should never be chosen. 

The Watchdog. — It is highly important that a 
watchdog should possess sufficient sagacity and in- 
telligence to enable him to discern between friends 
and foes, and to distinguish harmless visitors from 
questionable characters. If the dog is simply ex- 
pected to give notice of the appearance of strangers 
by barking, one of the smaller breeds, such as the 
Fox Terrier, will prove most desirable, for they are 
more wide-awake, as a rule, than the larger breeds. 
If the dog has to protect property without human 
assistance, one of the larger breeds should be 
selected. The Shepherd Dog is especially adapted 
to this and has been trained for the purpose. The 
Bulldog's reputation for ferocity makes him a valu- 
able watchdog and protector, for few people will 
take liberties with him. 

Sporting Dogs. — Dogs have been more highly de- 
veloped for hunting than any other purpose to 
which they have been put. The instinct for their 
particular work is so firmly instilled in the breed 
that in many instances puppies go about the work 
without any training from human sources. The 
sportsman will be interested in the dog particularly 

136 



Selection of the Dog 



adapted to his branch of sport and no other dog 
can take his place. 

Evil Points — Coat. — No dog can be found which 
will be ideal, each will have some drawback. It is 
well at this point to mention some of the offending 
details. The heavy-coated dog is bound to be a 
nuisance about the house while he is shedding. 
This process is, at best, prolonged, and the hairs 
attach themselves to the carpets, chairs, and clothes, 
and are not readily removed. During this period 
the coat looks rough and detracts much from the 
animal's appearance. 

Color. — White dogs are not to be desired, be- 
cause they must be bathed much more frequently 
than dogs of a dark color. This is not only trouble- 
some, but paves the way for skin diseases. 

Noisy Dogs. — Dogs that bark loudly and a great 
deal are not desirable in the apartment house because 
of the disturbance it may cause. As a rule, dogs 
are not welcome in any apartment, and tenants are 
sure to object to a noisy animal. This often leads 
to the exclusion of all dogs from the house. 

Disposition. — Ugly dogs should never be kept 
where many people congregate. They are never to 
be trusted and often a dog with a surly disposition 
will attack a person apparently for no reason at all. 
Trouble brought about in this way is very hard to 
dispel. 

137 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

Individual 

After deciding upon the breed that is most suit- 
able for the conditions at hand it is next necessary 
to select the individual dog. This is by no means 
a simple task for the novice. Among the impor- 
tant considerations, the first is the proper age at 
which the dog will be acquired. 

Age — Puppy. — During the first year the dog 
passes through the most interesting period of his 
life. No one, whether or not he cares for dogs, 
can help being attracted by the mischievous and 
playful pup. When reared in the household, he 
becomes much more attached to his masters than 
does the dog that is brought in as a mature animal. 
When young children are to play with the dog it is 
better that he become used to them while he is still 
young. The dog can be more satisfactorily trained 
as a puppy. The health of the grown dog depends 
a great deal on the way he is cared for during the 
first year, and no puppy that has had improper treat- 
ment will ever attain the same development he 
might have reached if he had had the proper start. 

There are as many arguments against buying the 
dog while a puppy as there are for it. During the 
early weeks of his life, the puppy is very frail and 
susceptible to outside influences. At weaning time 
it is often hard to get food which will properly 
agree with his system. Neglect at this time often 
causes systemic disturbances which are difficult to 

138 



Selection of the Dog 



correct. Puppies are frequently infested with 
worms, though not as often as some would have us 
think. Because of this popular fancy, many very 
young puppies have been so severely dosed with 
worm concoctions that their sensitive digestive 
mechanism has become greatly impaired. 

At from three to four months puppies frequently 
suffer from indigestion, worms, rickets, and eczema, 
all of which, though not particularly dangerous if 
attended to, may, when neglected, prove fatal. 
During the first year the dog is very susceptible to 
distemper and until he has acquired a natural re- 
sistance this disease is very fatal, accounting for 
more deaths than any other puppy ailment. 

The development of the dog is very uncertain. 
Even those who are experienced in handling dogs 
find great difficulty in forecasting the future of the 
pup. Puppies that show promise of developing into 
beautiful specimens of the breed often turn out to 
be complete failures; while others which show no 
prospects, when young occasionally develop to be 
winners. This is more or less true of all breeds, 
but is especially so in those where size and coat are 
of prime importance. When the puppy fails to de- 
velop to the expectations of the owner, he will be 
likely to overlook the discrepancy because he has 
become so attached to the animal that he will not 
give him up. 

Mature Dog. — In the purchase of a full-grown 
dog the initial cost will, of course, be greater, but 

139 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

considering the work of rearing the animal and the 
possible fatalities which the breeder must expect, 
the price is not so high in proportion as for the 
puppy. A dog at ten or eleven months of age at 
seventy-five dollars is cheaper and a better buy than 
a two months old puppy at twenty-five. 

If the dog has had proper care, at the age of 
one year, he should be a vigorous, healthy specimen, 
possessing sufficient resistance to combat disease 
successfully. On the other hand, if he has not had 
the care, his condition will show it. By this time 
the food should have been so regulated as to agree 
best with his conditions, and any deviation from the 
regular diet should not cause any serious upset. If 
the dog has suffered from rickets, the ailment will 
have been entirely overcome or otherwise be so 
noticeable that the most casual observer could not 
help but recognize it. He will have attained his full 
development and any faults will be in full evidence. 

Taking everything into consideration, the best age 
at which to purchase a dog is from ten months to 
one year. 

Old Dog. — It is very unwise to take a dog past 
three years old. At the best his span of life is 
short and if his early years are already spent he 
rapidly declines into old age. By the time he has 
become a recognized member of the family, he has 
reached an age at which his owner may expect to 
lose him. 

State of Health. — When purchasing a dog it is 

140 



Selection of the Dog 



exceedingly important to know whether or not the 
dog is sick. The man who has had considerable 
experience with dogs will be able to determine this 
with fair accuracy, but he who is having his first 
experience had best employ a veterinarian to make 
an examination of the animal before it is accepted. 
When paying a large price this procedure is a good 
insurance. 

In making an examination of a dog, first observe 
his general condition. Do not mistake an over- 
distended stomach for flesh. If the dog is very 
thin, some debilitating condition is present, and the 
animal should be rejected. The expression should 
be bright and the dog active. If he is dull and list- 
less, his vitality has become lowered by some ab- 
normal condition. The eyes should be bright, clear, 
and free from discharge. This may have been re- 
cently wiped away, but if not, the hair and skin 
beneath the inner corners of the eye will be soiled. 
The hair should be soft and glossy. A dull coat is 
significant of disease. The skin should be carefully 
examined for patches void of hair, areas of redness, 
scabs, sores, and mats of hair. In small puppies 
the hair is often soiled by the fecal discharges. 
When this is not cleaned away frequently the hair 
becomes matted, the skin underneath is irritated, 
and eczema develops. Careful tickling of the throat 
will induce a cough should the dog be suffering 
from laryngeal or bronchial trouble. Rough ma- 
nipulation, however, will cause coughing in a well 

141 



Your Dog- and Your Cat 

and healthy animal. If diarrhea is present to any 
extent, the rectum will be sore and inflamed. In 
dogs where the tail or ears have recently been 
trimmed be sure that healing has taken place. 

The general contour of the dog should be given 
consideration. Bowed legs or enlargements of the 
joints are suggestive of rickets. The dog should 
be placed on his back and the abdomen examined 
for swelling, which at the navel or in the groin are 
indicative of hernias or ruptures. These are espe- 
cially common in Pekingese. Do not allow the 
salesman to explain away any abnormal condition, 
especially if he seems to make light of it, for it 
may be of a serious nature. 

The conditions to be especially looked for in young 
dogs are, distemper, eczema, mange, rickets, hernias, 
and intestinal disorders. Distemper may be recog- 
nized by coughing, sneezing, discharge from the eyes 
or nose, diarrhea, emaciation, and a general look of 
weakness. Eczema and mange are almost identical 
in their outward aspect. A diagnosis can be made 
only by use of the microscope, and so a dog hav- 
ing any sort of skin lesion should be looked upon 
with suspicion. In rickets the forelegs become 
bowed and at the wrist, or first joint up, there is 
a distinct hump. The hind legs bend inward so 
that the hocks come close together. The hair is 
dry, dull, and staring. The dog is thin and the 
abdomen much distended. Although the dog may 
be playful he soon becomes tired. Intestinal dis- 

142 



Selection of the Dog 



orders, as indicated by poor appetite and diarrhea, 
are very common in caged dogs. Such a condition 
is difficult to correct and is frequently fatal. The 
dog should not be accepted if he shows the slightest 
tendency toward loose bowels. 

Breed Characteristics. — The importance of the 
breeding depends upon the sort of dog desired and 
the amount of money to be expended. Naturally 
the scrub dog would show no signs of good breed- 
ing, and the price must be correspondingly low. 
In well-bred dogs the value increases in proportion 
to their fitness as specimens of the type. It is very 
difficult for anyone not acquainted with the prevail- 
ing market prices of the particular breed to de- 
termine a fair value of a dog in question. The 
amateur when paying any considerable amount for 
his animal would do well to employ some one ac- 
quainted with the breed to help in the selection. 
Otherwise it will be necessary for him to make an 
exhaustive study of the breed from descriptive liter- 
ature, and by visiting the dog shows. He must 
obtain a working knowledge of the points of value 
in the type which he desires, but he must remember 
that no perfect dog has yet been bred and therefore 
he will find faults in all. The ability to choose the 
one in which the faults are of the least consequences 
will show to what extent he has studied his dog. 

Disposition and Manners. — The disposition of 
the pet dog is a very important characteristic. Ugly, 
snappy dogs are not desirable around the house. 

143 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

Unless the dog will allow the buyer to handle him 
freely, in the presence of his owner, he should be 
looked upon with suspicion. 

Unclean dogs are very undesirable. Few dealers 
will guarantee that a dog is house broken. It can, 
of course, never be expected of puppies. Dogs that 
are confined to a cage offer excellent evidence of 
their cleanliness. A naturally clean dog will refrain 
from using the cage as long as possible, and will 
thereafter carefully avoid it, but a filthy dog will 
promptly proceed to smear his cage as much as 
possible. A healthy dog that conducts himself in 
this way can never be trained to cleanly habits 
about the house. 

Sex. — Male dogs are usually preferred. Females 
are troublesome during their period of season. This 
inconvenience can be remedied by submitting the dog 
to an operation. An unsexed female is in many ways 
superior to a male as a pet, and is more desirable 
with children. 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE CAT 

Its Care 

Housing. — Cats are usually allowed the unlimited 
freedom of the house and because of their natural 
desire to climb are often found perched on some 
high and narrow ledge. There are certain condi- 
tions which must to some extent limit their range 
of movements. They must never be allowed in 
the room when meals are being served nor should 
they be left alone in the kitchen when food is within 
easy reach on the table, for cats are at heart born 
thieves — ^necessary to their existence in the natural 
state — and no matter how highly bred or well-man- 
nered they may be, they are apt to fall into bad 
habits if the temptation is too great. Since cats are 
generally believed to be carriers of disease they 
should be forbidden from the sick room and nursery. 
While it has not been our experience that cats are 
dangerous around babies, many mothers, nurses, 
and some doctors think that the cat through jeal- 
ousy will seek to kill the newborn infant. This is 
hard for cat lovers to believe and is likely to be 
ridiculed by them, but there are cases on record 
where cats have apparently gone into the crib and 
curled up to sleep, and by getting too close to the 
baby's face have smothered it. While I believe this 

145 



Your Dog and Your Gat 

to be accident rather than design on the part of 
the cat, still it is well to avoid the possible danger. 
When the windows are open in summer, cats are 
prone to go out on the window ledge to enjoy the 
sunshine and fresh air, and frequently when they 
venture too far they slip and fall to the ground. 

Long-haired cats are bound to prove troublesome 
if allowed to use the chairs or other furniture at 
will, because of the great tendency of their coats 
to fall out. This may be avoided by supplying for 
their use a pillow or by covering some of the chairs 
with cotton pads which can be easily removed when 
a person wishes to use a chair. Except for this rea- 
son they do not need a special bed, but if it is de- 
sirable a box or basket may be provided for their use. 

A pan of sawdust, sand, or torn bits of paper 
should be kept in some convenient place for their 
use in attending to their functions. They must have 
free access to this if they are to be clean with their 
habits. Ordinarily it is sufficient to clean the pan 
once a day, but there are cats who are so scrupu- 
lously clean that they will hesitate long before using 
the pan for a second time, and in such cases it is 
well to encourage the habit. 

Exercise. — Since cats do not require the exercise 
that dogs do, the freedom of the house is usually 
sufficient for their needs and they are rarely taken 
out of doors. Where a yard is available it is often 
well to allow the cat to go out, but in the crowded 
city there is great danger of their contracting dis- 

146 



The Cat 



ease from the alley cats. The tendency of cats to 
climb often results in fractures or other injuries, 
while fights with other cats or with dogs account 
for a variety of wounds. 

Vital Functions. — Keeping a check on the func- 
tions is of even more importance in the cat than in 
the dog. Being more closely confined there is a 
greater natural tendency toward constipation and in 
males there is a frequent stoppage of urination from 
calculi. Since cats when sick hide away and brood, 
rather than show any outward manifestation of ill- 
ness, trouble is not so quickly detected, and if the 
condition of the functions is known, sickness will 
be anticipated much more quickly. In Persian cats 
the hair about the rectum becomes easily attached 
to the stool, which, as it becomes matted and dry, 
prevents further passages until it has been cleaned 
away. 

Since the cat subsists largely on a meat diet, the 
feces are not very copious and there is rarely more 
than one movement a day. The stool when normal 
is black in color, cylindrical in shape and firm and 
moist in consistency. Very dry stools are abnormal, 
as well as very loose or watery passages. Diarrhea 
stools may be either yellow or black in color, and 
may be tinged with blood. Mucus may, at times, 
be present in the movements. Passages of urine 
may occur one or more times a day. They are 
usually abundant in quantity and of a strong char- 
acteristic odor. 



147 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

The cat should not be allowed to go more than 
forty-eight hours without a movement of the 
bowels, nor twenty-four hours without a passage 
of urine. In male cats, straining attempts at urina- 
tion without results are sufficient indication of 
trouble to require immediate attention. 

Coat. — The coat of the cat should receive daily 
combing and brushing. This is of especial impor- 
tance in those of the long-haired variety, since their 
hair so readily snarls and mats. Should this 
happen, the mat must be removed, either by teas- 
ing it away bit by bit from the underlying hair, 
or by clipping it off. Bathing is rarely, if ever 
necessary and since cats so strongly object to water 
it is best avoided. Should it be attempted the cat 
must be thoroughly dried afterward to prevent its 
catching cold. 

Teeth, Nails, Etc.— The teeth of the cat do not 
cause much trouble. They seldom become covered 
with tartar and so do not quickly decay. Cats 
rarely suffer from discharging eyes nor are they 
frequently subject to injury. The ears of the cat 
are often affected with canker and so it is necessary 
to clean them occasionally with a dry cotton swab. 
The cat's nails are exceedingly sharp and it is some- 
times advisable to cut away or file the very sharp 
points. This operation, however, deprives the ani- 
mal of a very effective weapon. Shedding of the 
nails is promoted by scratching on the carpets, chair 
legs, doorposts, etc. Occasionally the cat is sup- 

148 



The Cat 



plied with extra toes which do not come into bear- 
ing on the floor. These nails are not subject to 
wear and if allowed to grow may penetrate the 
footpad and cause a very painful sore. They should 
be occasionally clipped or filed to prevent such an 
occurrence. 

Medical Care 

Medication.— Cats do not take kindly to medi- 
cines, nor do they withstand much handling, thus 
medical treatment is very limited. There are many 
medicines for which they have no tolerance. These 
include disinfectants, especially those of the coal- 
tar group. They are particularly susceptible to 
carbolic acid. Disinfectants must not be used on 
the cat, nor on anything with which the animal will 
come in contact. 

Sick cats prefer quiet and darkness, and seek to 
hide away. Therefore, they should be handled as 
little as possible. Never should they be placed in 
strange quarters when it is in any way possible 
to care for them at home. The very change of 
surroundings in many cases will be sufficient to cause 
death to the animal. Cats succumb very quickly 
to disease, and so it is essential that treatment 
should be given early in the course of the illness if 
the outcome is to be favorable. 

Administration of Medicines. — There are times 
when it is necessary to give medicines to the cat, 
and the most satisfactory manner is by the oral 

149 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

administration of tablets. The cat can be held on 
a table by the forelegs, in the same manner as de- 
scribed for the dog; he can be held by grasping 
the forelegs with one hand and the hind legs with 
the other, or better, he can be rolled in a Turkish 
towel, with only the head projecting out. The 
upper jaw is grasped by the operator from above 
with the thumb and the forefinger of the left hand, 
and the tablet carried back into the mouth with a 
spoon. Liquids may be given in the same manner. 
Some cats do not seriously object to taking liquid 
medicines, while with others it is well-nigh impos- 
sible to administer them. Unless they take them 
readily, it is better when possible to resort to tab- 
lets. Suppositories may be easily used in the rec- 
tum, but enemas are hard to give and of uncertain 
action. When giving suppositories it may be more 
easily done if the cat is rolled in a towel. Cats 
will not tolerate inhalations. Because of their small 
size vaginal douches are impractical. Skin dis- 
eases are treated in much the same manner as in 
dogs, but the applications must be mild and non- 
toxic. Ointments are applied sparingly and over 
small areas. 

Common Diseases of the Cat 

Digestive Disturbances — The Month. — Bones 
frequently become lodged around the teeth or in 
the throat. Needles and pins are often found pierc- 

150 



The Cat 



ing the mucous membranes. Thread is sometimes 
swallowed and often becomes caught around the 
tongue, preventing its passage from the digestive 
tract. When the needle is attached it usually be- 
comes lodged in the cheek or the roof of the mouth. 
The presence of these foreign bodies as well as 
decaying or coated teeth cause an inflammation of 
the mucous membranes. 

Symptoms. — A thick viscid substance which may 
be white or brownish red in color drools from the 
corners of the mouth. The animal refuses food 
but may attempt to drink milk or water. There is 
great depression and if the condition lasts for sev- 
eral days the animal rapidly loses flesh. 

Treatment. — Removal of the foreign body, tartar, 
or loose teeth, followed by swabbing the mouth 
cavity with a warm solution of boric acid. 

Vomiting. — This occurs as a symptom of a dis- 
order of the stomach. It may be the result of a 
slight upset due to indigestion or worms, or fol- 
lowing the ingestion of some irritating material 
such as hair, or if it persists and becomes violent 
it is an indication of a severe inflammation of the 
stomach. The vomit may consist of the offending 
material, it may be a white froth, or it may be 
yellow, as a result of the involvement of the liver. 
In severe cases it may be streaked with blood or 
be reddish-brown in color. Constipation usually 
occurs with vomiting, and, in fact, may be con- 
sidered as a contributing cause to it. The appetite 

151 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

in mild attacks may remain good, but the ingestion 
of food at this time will only tend to make the 
condition worse. In severe attacks the animal will 
refuse all food but will drink a great deal of water. 
In the later stages it will sit over the water dish 
as though it wanted to drink, but could not. 

Treatment. — Withhold all food and drink in 
order to give the stomach a much needed rest. The 
bowels may be emptied by the use of a glycerine 
suppository in the rectum or by giving a cathartic 
tablet containing two or three grains of cascara 
sagrada per mouth, or milk of magnesia may be 
given in teaspoonful doses every three or four 
hours. With this may be given five grains of sub- 
nitrate of bismuth. Should the vomiting continue 
for more than twenty-four hours it should receive 
more vigorous attention. 

Constipation. — This may occur in animals fed on 
nothing but raw beef because the meat is so thor- 
oughly digested that there is not sufficient residue 
to make a copious stool. However, the usual causes 
are improper food, foreign bodies, and poor diges- 
tion. 

Symptoms. — Aside from the absence of a passage 
the cat may act languid, refuse food, and later start 
to vomit. 

Treatment. — The movements of the animal 
should be noted each day in order to keep a check 
on their occurrence as well as their consistency. 
Should they become hard, oil should be given, either 

152 



The Cat 



on the food or with a spoon. For this purpose olive 
oil or mineral oil works nicely. When it is observed 
that the cat has not had a movement for a period of 
twenty-four hours, oil should be administered dur- 
ing the next day, a teaspoonful, once, twice or even 
three times, should no movement occur from less. 
Should the bowels fail to move during the second 
day, a suppository may be used. If this does not 
bring forth a movement, or should the cat start to 
vomit, the veterinarian should be immediately 
called. 

Diarrhea. — This may be due to improper food or 
it may be a symptom of an inflammation of the 
bowels due to cold, infection, or worms. Milk 
often disagrees with the cat, causing a violent 
diarrhea after each feeding. Some cats cannot take 
milk in any form, while others may take raw milk 
with impunity and develop diarrhea from evapo- 
rated or condensed milk. In other animals the re- 
verse may be true. When it is thought that milk 
may be the cause it should be discontinued. If the 
diarrhea stops, another form of milk may be given 
in order to see if there may be any that is agree- 
able to the cat in question. If all forms of milk 
tend to cause a similar upset, it should be entirely 
eliminated from the diet. Diarrhea due to a cold 
will usually be accompanied with a fever and prob- 
ably a watery discharge from the eyes or nose, or 
both. There is an infectious disease, occurring in 
cats characterized by vomiting and diarrhea, which 

153 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

is very fatal and very contagious. Worms may, 
in some cases, be the cause of diarrhea. Diarrhea 
stools are usually black, but if the liver is involved 
they are yellow in color. In number the stools may 
range from one to twenty a day, and in quantity 
from a few drops to two tablespoonfuls. 

Treatment. — All food and drink should be with- 
held. If possible, a teaspoonful of castor oil should 
be given, or several doses of milk of magnesia may 
be indicated. After the subsequent cleansing of the 
bowels, if the diarrhea does not stop, subnitrate of 
bismuth should be given in five-grain doses, every 
two to four hours. The diarrhea should not be 
allowed to persist for any length of time. 

Hair Balls. — While hair balls may occur in any 
cat, they are more frequently found in those of the 
long-haired variety. In the process of cleaning 
their coats the loose hairs are picked up by the 
tongue and swallowed. If but a few hairs are taken 
at a time they pass on into the intestines, become 
mixed with the food and are passed out with the 
stool. When large numbers of hairs are swallowed 
they tend to fasten themselves together in the form 
of a ball. This may happen either in the stomach 
or in the intestines. Thus, the hair ball may be 
thrown up after it has become of considerable size, 
or it may be passed as a stool. When the accumu- 
lation is great, it may form an obstruction in the 
intestine which is followed by an inflammation of 
the bowels. Hair may remain in the stomach for 

154 



The Cat 



years without causing any appreciable trouble. One 
hair ball was removed from the stomach of a cat 
after death, which was as large as the ordinary 
baseball. 

Symptoms. — There is no regular trend of symp- 
toms exhibited by hair balls. There may be evi- 
dence first of irritation of the stomach as indicated 
by repeated attacks of vomiting — the vomit consist- 
ing only of white froth. In other cases there will 
be evidence of constipation, which in a few days 
will be followed by vomiting. The appetite will, of 
course, be impaired, and the cat will show depres- 
sion. Many cats habitually throw up a hair ball 
at regular intervals. 

Treatment. — A teaspoonful of castor oil will 
often cause vomiting of the hair ball from the 
stomach. If on the other hand, it is located in the 
intestines it may cause its passage. However, for 
this effect, mineral oil in repeated doses is much 
to be preferred. These cases should not be neglected 
as serious results may follow. 

Worms. — Young cats are occasionally infested 
with round worms, while tapeworm is rare. As a 
rule the first evidence of trouble will be noticed 
when the animal suddenly throws up a worm. 
Since cats are very susceptible to any of the poisons 
active enough to disturb the worms, their adminis- 
tration should be carried out only by a veterinarian. 

Diseases of the Urinary Organs. — While inflam- 
mation of the kidneys may occasionally develop in 

155 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

cats its diagnosis is very difficult. The most fre- 
quent urinary trouble occurs in male cats, due to 
the presence of calculi in the urethra. The very 
small stones are formed in the bladder in large num- 
bers, and are forced down into the urethra as the 
cat urinates. Because of the very small caliber of 
this canal the stones become imbedded in it and 
their removal is very difficult. When the stones 
are of sufficient size to obstruct the canal urination 
is impossible. As the cat strains in the attempt the 
stone becomes more firmly imbedded. The disease 
may be diagnosed by observing these attempts at 
urination, and in their event the animal must be 
rushed to the veterinarian with all possible haste. 
Even then the outlook is not very good for if the 
offending stone is removed it will only be a matter 
of time when more will pass down into the urethra 
and cause further trouble. 

Diseases of the Skin — Eczema. — The cat suffers 
much from falling of the coat, dandruff, and 
eczema. The conditions are very closely allied and 
are primarily due to disorders in digestion brought 
about by faulty feeding. In young cats, worms are 
frequently a contributing cause. Confinement and 
lack of exercise also play an important part. 

Symptoms. — Eczema starts with a falling of the 
coat and scratching. As it progresses there may be 
evidence of dandruff. But when it becomes severe, 
skin lesions are noticed. Pimples may form in 
various places over the body especially just anterior 

156 



The Cat 



to the base of the tail. There may be areas of 
dry, rough scales, or the lesion may consist of a 
reddened moist patch, devoid of hair. As the dis- 
ease advances the lesions increase in size and spread 
to other parts of the body. 

Treatment. — If the diet is bad it should be cor- 
rected. If the cat is fat, he should be put on short 
rations. If worms are present, they should be 
treated. Unless the lesion is of very long standing 
it will probably respond to careful applications of 
borated vaseline, which should be applied sparingly, 
and well rubbed in, so that the cat will not in clean- 
ing himself lick up too much of it. If the condi- 
tion persists for any length of time internal medica- 
tion and more vigorous external treatment will be 
needed. 

Mange. — Mange first appears about the head and 
ears and gradually spreads back over the body. The 
lesion consists of a very thick crust of scales of 
grayish-brown color which gives the skin the appear- 
ance of being very much thickened. If the disease 
involves a large part of the skin area it is ques- 
tionable whether or not it is advisable to attempt 
treatment. In the early stages and in mild cases 
sulphur and lard may be applied. However, it is 
much better to consult a veterinarian while there is. 
still a chance of saving the animal. 

Fleas. — During the summer months cats suffer 
greatly from fleas. Because of their susceptibility 
to drugs great care must be exercised in the selec- 

157 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

tion of the treatment. Persian insect powder is one 
of the safest remedies. The cat is placed on a 
newspaper or sheet and the powder is sprinkled 
over the body and worked well into the hair with 
the hands, about twenty minutes being spent in the 
process. By this time the fleas will begin to mi- 
grate toward the head and as they come to the sur- 
face they may be picked off and dropped in a strong 
disinfectant solution. Those which drop off upon 
the paper may be disposed of in the same manner. 
After all the fleas possible have been removed the 
cat should be given a good brushing to remove most 
of the powder. This treatment must be repeated 
frequently as long as any fleas remain. 

If it is possible to bathe the cat a solution com- 
posed of one tablespoonful of kerosene and a pint 
of milk can be rubbed into the fur, and after an 
interval of half an hour the animal must be bathed. 
About two or three treatments, at intervals of three 
days, will be necessary to free the cat of her pests. 

Black Flag should never be used. Coal-tar dis- 
infectants are also too toxic to use around cats. 

Organs of Reproduction — Estriim. — The period 
of estrum in a cat occurs at more or less irregular 
intervals of two to four months. In regular breed- 
ing animals the period is usually found constant to 
each individual. The discharge is spare in quantity 
and thus is rarely observed, but the nervous excite- 
ment attendant to the function is such that there will 
be no doubt in the mind of the owner as to its 

158 



The Cat 



cause. The cat cries a great deal, in a peculiar tone, 
and thus breeders have come to name the function 
"calling." In addition to this the animal will roll 
about on the floor, on cushions, and become par- 
ticularly excited if given catnip. They are very 
lovable and seek much attention and petting. 

During this period if kittens are not desired the 
cat should be kept under strict surveillance. 

Cystic Ovaries. — In female cats, especially those 
that are finely bred, the ovaries frequently become 
diseased. This may consist of a simple inflamma- 
tion, or a cyst may be formed. The effect of this 
condition is to increase the frequency and severity 
of the period of season. The calling becomes very 
loud, constant, and annoying, and the excitement to 
touch is very much increased. The only treatment 
is operative. 

Castration. — Female cats are made much more 
desirable as pets if they are altered. This is a more 
or less serious operation, but when carried out 
with strict adherence to good clean surgery by a 
skillful operator much of the danger is eliminated. 
The proper age at which the operation may be per- 
formed is from nine months to one year. 

Castration of males is ordinarily considered a 
simple operation. In city bred animals of low re- 
sistance trouble sometimes follows, and so the opera- 
tion should be performed as early as possible to 
minimize the danger. 



159 



Your Dog and Your Cat 

Feeding 

Foods. — Of the meats, raw beef is the most pre- 
ferable food for cats. This should make up the 
major part of the diet. Boiled and roast beef, 
lamb, or veal may also be used in limited quantities. 
Raw liver is also very good, and because of its 
laxative action is often desirable. Boiled or fried 
liver, however, should never be given. 

Cereals may be given to the cats that like them, 
in limited quantities. Farina, Cream of Wheat, and 
oatmeal, covered with milk, will help to give body 
to the diet. Some vegetables, such as spinach, 
string beans, and carrots, may also be given. There 
are on the market cat foods which are by many 
highly recommended. Bread may often be given 
when moistened with milk. 

Milk may be given freely, provided the cat does 
not show a weakness to it. Should it cause diar- 
rhea, its use must be discontinued. Cats can have 
free access to water at all times, but as a rule they 
do not care much for it. 

Feeding. — The cat should be fed at least twice a 
day. The quantity of food allowed must depend on 
the age and general condition of the animal. Grow- 
ing cats will require more in proportion to their 
size than those already matured. A fully developed 
animal in good condition will require only enough 
food to maintain an even weight. The food should 
be given at regular intervals and in regular amounts. 

i6o 



The Cat 



The cat should not be allowed to gorge itself at 
one meal, and then go for one or two feedings with 
only a small quantity. 

When weaning kittens it is perhaps advisable first 
to accustom them to taking milk from a saucer. 
Cereal may then be added in small quantities, and 
by increasing the amount they will learn to eat 
some of the bulky foods which give body to the 
diet. When they are readily taking the cereal they 
may then be given meat in small quantities. 



INDEX 



Accommodations, 132 
Airedale, 125, 130 
Airing rooms, 2, 47 
Anal pouches, infection of, 60 
Apartment house, 132 
Automobile accidents, pre- 
vention of, 8 

Bathing: 

dog, 20 

bath, how to give, 22 
frequency of, 21 
taking out after, 23 

cat, 145 
Bed, 4 

cleaning, 4 
Bedding, 2 

mats, 2 

shavings, 2 
Beef, 94 

Biting at tail, 60 
Blanket, 7 
Bones, 52, 56, 96 
Boston Terrier, 125, 129 
Bread, 98 
Breasts, care after whelping, 

90 
Breeding, 80 

advisability, 80 

necessity, 81 
Bronchitis, 62 
Broth, 100 
Bulldog, 125, 129 

as a watchdog, 136 



Candy, 100 
Care: 
dog, I 
cat, 145 
Castration, cat, 159 
Cat, 145 

Catarrh of the nose, 61 
Cereals, 99 
Characteristics, 143 
of the breeds, 126 
Children, the dog for, 135 
Chorea, 66 
Chow, 125, 131 
Classification of animals, 93 
Classification of breeds, 1 24 
Cleaning: 
bedding, 4 
coats, 20 
dog house, 4 
feeding dishes, 4 
puppies, 106 
Clipping, 23 

infection from, 24 
Coat: 

dog, 17, 137 
bathing, 20 
brushing, 19 
care of, 17 
cleaning, 20 
clipping, 23 
description of, 18 
drying, 23 
long-haired, 19 
oiUng the hair, 25 



163 



Index 



Coat: 

dog, oils for, 25 
plucking, 19 
shedding, 137 
short-haired, 18 
wire-haired, 19 

cat, 148 
Cold, application of, 42 
Cold in the head, 61 
Collar, 6, 61 
Collie, 125, 131 
Conception, false, 84 
Conformation, 125 
Constipation: 

dog, 56, 97 

cat, 152 
Control of dogs, 115 

for medication, 33 

on the street, 8 
Cystic ovaries, cat, 159 

Dachshtmd, 125, 129 
Dalmatian, 125, 130 
Defecation: 

dog, 16 

frequency of, 15 
method of, 16 

cat, 147 
Diarrhea: 

dog, 55 

water in, 114 

cat, 155 
Digestive tract of animals, 
Diseases of: 

cat, 150 

dog, 49 

digestion, 49 

respiration, 61 

skin, 70 

urinary tract, 67 
Dislocations, 78 



Disposition, 137, 143 
Distemper, 45, 64 
Doeberman Pinscher, 125, 

130 
Dog crackers, 98 
Dog house, 3 
Drying after bath, 23 

Ears, 29 

canker of, 30 
care of, 29 
Eclampsia, 90 
Eczema: 
dog, 70 
cat, 156 
Enemas, 37 

English Bulldog, 125, 129 
as a pet, 135 
as a watchdog, 136 
English Bull Terrier, 125, 130 
Estrum: 
dog, 81 

bathing during, 83 
care during, 82 
period of, 81 
cat, 158 
Evacuations, 14 
frequency, 15 
External applications, 41 
Exercise: 
dog, 5 

amount, 11 
93 freedom of the house, i 

frequency, 12 
need of, 5 
regularity, 12 
roof, 9 
street, 6 
yard, 9 
cat, 146 
Eyes, 30 

164 



Index 



Feces, 14 

frequency, 15 
Feeding: 
dog, 102 
bottle, 105 
breast, 102 
dishes, 4 
forced, 113 
frequency, 107 
improper, 112 
mature dogs, no 
overfeeding, 112 
place for, 4 

puppy, 102, 105, 107, 108 
special, in 
cat, 160 
Fish, 97 
Fleas: 
dog, 75 
cat, 157 
Food, 94 
analysis, 93 
cat, 160 
puppies, 106 
medicine in, 36 
quantity, 100 
requirements, 92 
Fox Terrier, 125, 128 
Fowl, 97 
Fractures, 78 
French Bulldog, 125, 129 
Fruits, 100 



Hair balls, cat, 154 

Harness, 6 

Health, importance 

buying, 140 
Heart, 96 

Heat, application of, 42 
Home treatment, 45 
Horse meat, 95 



when 



Hospital, 47 
House-brea.king, 120 
Housing: 

dog, I 

cat, 145 
Hygiene, 47 

Indigestion, 49 
Individuals, selection of, 138 
Infection of anal pouches, 60 
Inflammation of stomach and 

intestines, 51 
Inhalations, 39 
Injuries, 76 
Intoxication, 53 

Lamb, 95 
Laryngitis, 61 
Lice, 75 
Liver, 96 
Lung, 96 

Manners, 8, 118, 143 
Mange: 

dog, 13 

cat, 157 
Mating, 83 
Mats, 2 
Meats, 94 

spiced, 96 
Medication: 

dog, z^ 

cat, 149 
Medicines: 

dog, ^7, 

admimstration of, ^t, 
use and abuse of, 43 

cat, 149 
Milk: 

dog, 100 
lack of, in bitches, 104 



I6S 



Index 



Milk: 

dog, 

superabundance, 105 

cat, 153, 160 
Mouth, diseases of. cat, 150 
Muzzle, 7 

Nails: 

dog, 31 

cat, 148 
Nursing, 104 

Oils for hair, 25 
Oral medication, z:^ 
Ovaries, cystic, cat, 159 

■ Pan, 5, 121 
Parturition, 85 

difficuh, 87 
Pekingese, 124, 126 
Pet, 134 

Pills, administration of, 35 
Pneumonia, 62 
Poisons, 37 
Pomeranian, 124, 127 
Poodle, 124, 127 
Pork, 96 
Pregnancy, 84 

false, 85 
Puppies, 138 

care of infant, 103 

delivery of, 85 
Puppy crackers, 98 
Puppy meal, 98 

QuaHfications, 123 

Rectal medication, 37 
Roof for exercise, 9 

Sawdust, 5, 121 
Scotch Terrier, 125, 128 



Season, 81 
Selection of: 

breed, 123 

dog, 123 

individual, 138 
Shavings, 4 

Shepherd Dogs, 125, 132 
Size, 124 

large dogs, 125, 131 

medirnn dogs, 125, 130 

small dogs, 125, 127 

toys, 124, 126 
Skin diseases: 

dog, 70 

cat, 156 
Sleeping baskets, 2 
Sleeping box, 3 
SUding on the floor, 60 
Soap, 21 
Sore throat, 61 
Sporting dogs, 136 
Stones, 56 

Street for exercise, 6 
Suitability, 134 
Suppositories, 39 
Sex, 144 

Tartar, 27 
Teeth, 26 

cat, 148 

decayed, 28 

eruption, 26 

loose, 28 

number, 26 

permanent, 26 

puppy, 26 
Toilet, 5 
Toothache, 28 
Toy dogs, 124, 126 
Training, 115 

age, 116 



166 



Index 



Training, house-breaking, 120 
manners, 118 
methods, 117 

Urinary tract, diseases of: 

dog, 67 

cat, 155 
Urine, 16 

Vaginal medication, 40 
Veal, 95 
Vegetables, 99 
Vomiting: 

dog, 54 

cat, 151 



Vital fimctions: 
cat, 147 
puppy, 106 
relation to health, 13 

Watchdogs, 136 
Water, 113 
Weaning, 108 
Whelping, 85 

care after, 89 
Wire for exercising, 10 
Worms: 

dog, 58, 6^ 

cat, 155 
Woimds, 76 

Yard, 



(X) 



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